The Diary of a Northern Belle

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Very Easy Tutorial: Leaf Stitch

     Anne      1 Comment

Hello and welcome to another stitch tutorial! This time, it’s another of my favourite ones: the leaf stitch. There are so many ways to stitch leaves, but the leaf stitch is definitely one of the easiest. Essentially made up only of straight stitches, it’s a quick and accurate way to embroider a leaf.

 

very easy leaf stitch tutorial

 

The leaf stitch is very similar to the fishbone stitch in appearance, and to the satin stitch in technique. I find it even easier than either of those though, particularly for embroidering very small leaves. It’s also a very easy stitch for beginners to learn.

 

Leaf Stitch Tutorial

1. You can draw a leaf outline on your fabric if you wish, or simply free-hand it. Not all stitches are easy to free-hand and keep straight and neat, but this one can work.

leaf outline traced in pencil on white fabric

 

2. Bring your threaded needle up from the back at point A, the very tip of the leaf. I’m using 2 strands of moss green floss. Go back down at point B in the middle of the leaf, forming a straight stitch. This first stitch is usually quite short, only a few millimeters.

first stitch going from A on top of the leaf, to B in the middle of the leaf, forming a straight stitch

 

3. Bring your needle up again at point C, just below point A along the leaf’s outline. Go back down again at point D, forming a second straight stitch that ends just below point B, along the middle (this will form the leaf’s midrib – the middle vein). This stitch should lie on a slight diagonal angle.

second stitch from C to D right beside first A-B stitch

 

4. Continue to repeat this step until one half of the leaf is complete. Your stitches will get longer and more angled around the middle of the leaf, then get gradually shorter again. Always end them right along the midrib. You can start a few stitches just outside the outline if you wish to create a jagged edge.

needle going down at an angle to form the next straight stitch to fill the leaf
one half of the leaf stitched in straight stitches at an angle going towards the middle

 

5. Then, do exactly the same thing to fill the other half. If your leaf is quite big, I recommend snipping off the thread and starting again at the top instead of dragging it across.

needle coming back up at the top of the leaf to fill the second half

Ta-da! A cute little leaf!

finished embroidered leaf in embroidery hoop with needle threaded through the fabric above the leaf

To add more depth, you can use a different thread colour and run straight stitches along the middle and towards the outer edges to create the veins. I like to do this with 1 strand of a darker shade.

 

And that’s it friends, as promised this one is a very simple stitch, but one that looks so good! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and here’s the pinnable image if you wish to save it:

how to do the leaf stitch
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You Might Also Like:

I have other stitch tutorials you might be interested in! They can all be found in the Stitch Library on the main page’s menu.

5 embroidery stitches to learn as a beginners
the french knot easy tutorial
embroidery tutorial satin stitch

I’ve also been posting short Reel tutorial videos over on Instagram, if you’d like to see the stitch done that way.

Until next time!

 

Fondly,

Hand-Sewing Basics: Easy Whipstitch Tutorial

     Anne      2 Comments

Welcome to another stitch tutorial: the whipstitch! This one will be a bit different since it’s not exactly an embroidery stitch (though you can use it for embroidery), but more a hand-sewing stitch. It’s quite easy and so incredibly useful. Definitely a great stitch to learn for many uses.

 

hand-sewing tutorial the whipstitch

 

Whipstitch Tutorial

I’ll show you first how to do it on a plain piece of fabric, without joining anything together so you can better see how it’s done.

I prefer to avoid knots when doing this stitch, since it’s usually used to join fabric together and securing it with anchoring stitches is more secure than a knot. You can see this post for how to start stitches without a knot.

 

1. For practice, I definitely recommend drawing two parallel guidelines of the width you’d like your stitches to be. Mine is about 0.5 cm wide. I also prefer to work this stitch horizontally from right to left, but that might be different if you’re left or right-handed.

fabric in embroidery hoop showing drawn parallel lines in pencil and anchoring stitches to begin stitching

 

2. Bring your needle up from the back at point A. Guide your working thread to lay at an angle towards the direction you’re working (to the left, in this case). Bring your needle down at point B (the distance between A and B will be how long your stitch is), and back up again in C in the same motion. C should be parallel with A.

thread coming up at point A, laying diagonally to the left and needle going back down at point b
needle going down in B and C at the same time to create whipstitch
first whipstitch laying at an angle from a to b, and working thread coming out at point c

 

3. Continue in this way for the remainder of the line, making sure that your stitches are even and equally spaced out. You can add more guidelines to your fabric to help you with this if you need! The stitches will lay at an angle naturally as you keep the needle straight while going through the fabric.

two stitches lain down to begin whipstitch line
finished line of whipstitch

 

Where Can You Use the Whipstitch?

As I mentioned earlier, the whipstitch is more often used as a hand-sewing stitch. Back before sergers came along, it was often used to overcast raw fabric edges by hand. I’ve done it on velvet and it works incredibly well! A bit time consuming compared to using a serger, but it’s actually a really neat and efficient way to finish an edge. The whipstitch is also used to join fabrics together, often along fold lines or when using felt. It’s widely used in appliqué and English paper piecing as well (two crafts I’ve become enamoured with this year haha!). It’s not invisible like the slipstitch though, so it can double as a decorative stitch too!

Below are a few different examples of the whipstitch in practice. I really love this stitch and find myself using it pretty often :).

 

Joining Felt and Creating a Border:

Last week, I shared a scissor case I made out of felt, where I used the whipstitch both to sew my pieces together and create a nice border. I used embroidery floss instead of sewing thread and it worked really well.

needle going through two pieces of felt to whipstitch the pieces together
flat lay view of finished scissor case surrounded by dried plants, lace, a red bow, and small copper kettle

Joining pieces together for EPP:

Here I used the whipstitch to join two hexagons together in EPP style (English Paper Piecing). The hexagons are fabric-covered cardstock, but I only sew through the fabric. A full tutorial on how to make a hexie flower using this method is available here.

two hexies held good sides together, needle going through the folds along one edge with a whipstitch
the two hexagons seen from the good side, sewn together along one edge

Finishing the back of an embroidery hoop:

A bit similar to EPP, here I’m using the whipstitch to join a fabric-covered backing to the back of an embroidery hoop. The fabric from the backing is whipstitched to the hoop allowance of the main embroidery project. I also shared a tutorial on how to finish your hoop like this in this post.

close-up of needle whipstitching backing to the back of embroidery hoop
close-up view of finished embroidery hoop back to show the whipstitching all around

To appliqué a piece of lace:

The whisptitch is super useful for appliqué, especially since in this case the edge of the lace is further covered with stem stitch in yellow thread. But in order to secure the lace to the fabric, I first ran a whipstitch all around. I kept my stitches small and close to the edge so they would be as invisible as possible. For a closer look at this project, you can have a look at my Wisteria Embroidery Inspired by Literature post.

lace appliqué being sewn on main fabric
stem stitch outline worked around lace appliqué

As you can see, the whipstitch is a super useful stitch to know and can be used in so many projects. It’s also a great alternative to the slipstitch for closing openings. I find it much faster to work, but it’s not as invisible, which is why it’s nice when it serves a decorative purpose as well.

I hope this whipstitch tutorial was helpful, and don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any questions. Happy stitching!

 

Fondly,

P.S. – Have a stitch you’d like to learn, or questions about hand embroidery in general? I’d love to help! You can send me an email at anne.marie@diaryofanorthernbelle.com or message me on Instagram!

learn how to do the whipstitch
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Learn the Satin Stitch: Embroidery Tutorial

     Anne      4 Comments

Welcome to another hand embroidery stitch tutorial! Today, we will be looking at the satin stitch, one of the most popular stitches used in hand embroidery. If you’re new to hand embroidery, this is definitely a great stitch to learn and start practicing!

 

satin stitch embroidery tutorial

 

To begin, you will need basic embroidery supplies: a piece of fabric (just a scrap is perfect for practicing), embroidery scissors, embroidery needle, hoop, and some floss of your choice. I will be using 3 strands of DMC #741 for this tutorial.

If you’d like more information on basic embroidery supplies, you can have a look at this post.

Once your fabric is sitting drum tight in the hoop and your needle is loaded, you will be ready to begin. The satin stitch is a filling stitch, intended to fully cover various shapes. I highly recommend starting with an easy one, like a square or a rectangle.

You will definitely want to draw this shape on the fabric to give you some guidelines. Use a pencil or water-soluble pen (or other marking tool if you prefer). I will be filling in a rectangle, which I drew on my fabric in pencil. I’m using 3 strands here, but you can use as many or as few as you want. The more strands you use, the “chunkier” it will look and the fewer strands you use, the more blended it will look. Keep in mind that using more strands makes it a bit harder for the stitches to lay very flat since the strands tend to twist on themselves. Using few threads takes longer to fill, but we’re in no rush!

 

rectangle shape drawn in pencil over fabric sitting in embroidery hoop

To secure your thread, you can use a knot if you’re just practicing. If you’re working on a project, you might want to start with anchoring stitches or a waste knot instead. I wrote a full post on how to begin & end your stitches if you need extra help.

 

Satin Stitch Tutorial

Normally with the satin stitch, you want to begin in the middle of your shape (with a square or a rectangle that doesn’t matter as much since the shape is the same all around). This is because it’s a stitch that closely follows the shape you’re filling and it’s often easier to begin in the middle than at the edge.

 

  1. Bring your needle up from the back at point A and go back down in B, forming a straight stitch. You can choose to work horizontally or vertically depending on what you prefer and the shape that you’re filling.
straight stitch going from point A to B to form the first satin stitch to fill rectangle

 

2. Choose to fill either the left or right side first. Here, I will be doing the left. Bring your needle up again at point C, directly beside point A, and go back down in D. You should now have two straight stitches laying side by side.

second stitch being made beside the first; point C directly beside point A and point D beside point B
second stitch laying flat beside the first to begin row of satin stitch

3. Continue in the same way until half of the shape is fully covered. Stitches should be nice and tight, one directly beside each other without overlapping or splitting, following the shape you’re filling. With a rectangle, each stitch should be exactly the same length, starting and ending right beside each other. Be careful not to pull too hard, or it will distort the shape. The stitches should just be laying on the fabric, tight against each other but not tightly pulled. You will definitely want your fabric held taught in the hoop.

half of the rectangle filled with satin stitch

 

Ideally, you also always want to work each stitch in the same direction. I prefer to work this stitch vertically from bottom to top, so I always start each stitch at the bottom edge and work upwards. But you can do the opposite, or work horizontally from left to right or vice versa. Sometimes it will also depend on what kind of shape you’re working with.

 

4. Once the first half is done, you can secure your thread and cut it to start anew, or simply drag it behind the stitches you’ve already lain to fill the other half.

Fill the second half just as you’ve done the first, working in the same direction!

rectangle completely filled with satin stitch

 

Filling a Shape With an Outline

Filling stitches often benefit from having the shape stitched with an outline first. Here I drew a crescent shape onto my fabric and outlined it with a splitstitch.

crescent moon shape outlined in splitstitch

This will help to give me a nicer edge, especially at the points. Each stitch begins and ends right outside of this splitstitch edge, covering it entirely.

 

Another thing I like to do that I find really helpful, is to place guiding stitches along the way and fill small areas at a time. In other words, I place stitches to split the area in smaller and smaller halves, and then fill them in. This is especially helpful to keep a shape like a crescent.

crescent shape being filled with satin stitch and guiding stitches to fill small areas at a time

 

When you get to the small points, take your time to make very small stitches that are still straight and flat.

crescent moon filled with satin stitch

 

Satin Stitch Pumpkin

While I was preparing this tutorial, I started embroidering a little pumpkin in this style and found it was a really great shape for practicing the satin stitch. I’ve been seeing a lot of them all over my Instagram and they’re really cute, though not exactly my normal stitching style. I tend to favour just an outline or the long & short stitch for filling my designs, but I decided to give this look a try and rather like the result! I couldn’t leave it at just the satin stitch though, so I added a backstitch outline all around it to give it more dimension (and hide my uneven satin stitch hahahaha!!). This outline was added after the satin stitch filling. I outlined the pumpkin with splitstitch first, then satin stitched to cover that outline. The backstitch was added last, as a finishing touch.

embroidered pumpkin in satin stitch and backstitch outline
embroidered pumpkin in satin stitch view from side

Here is the mini-pattern I used, if you fancy practicing your satin stitch and you’re still in the mood for some fall stitching! I’m terrible at drawing anything directly on fabric and like a good pattern for everything, so here’s this sweet pumpkin I made:

pumpkin outline for satin stitch practice

Feel free to print it if you want to use it, and let’s see that satin stitch! 😊

 

I hope you found this tutorial helpful, and as always don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions!

Fondly,

learn how to do the satin stitch
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French Knot Made Easy: Stitch Tutorial

     Anne      Leave a Comment

Hello and welcome to another stitch tutorial! Today we are going to be looking at one of my favourite stitches ever, The French Knot. I know some people strongly dislike it or aren’t inclined to try it, but it’s really easy once you get the hang of it! And it’s SO useful. Not only does it add texture, but it’s also perfect for small details such as eyes or flower centers. I use it in nearly every project I make!

 

easy french knot tutorial

 

Last week I shared a raspberry embroidery project, where I combined French knots and beads to create the berries. The effect was wonderful, I thought! It made the fruits very dimensional, and the French knots are quick and easy to work. And this is coming from someone who struggles with hyperhidrosis and has a lot of trouble with bullion knots. I wrote a good hack for that one in my post Awesome Bullion Knot Hack. 😉 So anyways, the French knots are your friend! Even if your thread gets all wet like mine because of sweaty hands, they are still very manageable. (Right, so it’s very unpleasant to stitch with hyperhidrosis sometimes, but it’s doable!!)

 

Let’s Begin

Without further ado, let me show you how to work those fabulous French knots! First, you will begin by threading an embroidery needle and hooping your fabric. Then, anchor or knot your thread and you’ll be ready to begin.

For a list of embroidery tools you need to get started, check out this post: The Only Embroidery Tools You Need

For tips on how to start and end your stitches, check out: How to Start and End Embroidery Stitches

I used 3 strands of floss for this tutorial.

 

French Knot Tutorial

 

Bring your needle up from the back once it’s threaded and anchored.

With one hand (I’m right-handed so I’ll do this with my left hand because my dominant hand will hold the needle), hold the thread up a little, slightly above where it came up the fabric. With your dominant hand, hold your needle behind the thread, perpendicularly.

 

hold the needle behind the thread

 

Wrap the thread twice around the needle. For best results, you always want to wrap only twice. If you want your knot to be bigger or smaller, reduce or add the number of strands you work with. Wrapping more than twice usually only creates a mess. You can wrap clockwise or anti-clockwise, it doesn’t really matter.

 

wrap thread twice around needle

 

Pull the thread to tighten the wraps a little. You want them to be tight enough that they both rest against each other, but loose enough to be able to move the needle.

While still holding the thread with one hand, let your other hand guide the needle to go through the fabric again. Position the tip of the needle just beside the point where you first came up. You don’t want to be in exactly the same hole, or the knot won’t hold, but you want be as close as you can get.

 

tighten the wraps and angle the needle to take a stitch

 

As you angle the needle upwards to go through the fabric, relax your hand holding the thread just a little, allowing the loops to slide down the needle.

When they get to the bottom, hold the thread tight to tighten the loops against the needle shaft again, and keep holding the thread! Usually at this point, I like to use one finger to hold the thread down against the fabric to make sure those loops stay wrapped tight around the needle.

 

hold thread with one hand and pull the needle through with the other to make french knot

 

While you hold the thread, pull the needle through. It will go through the loops and the fabric. Hold on to the thread with your finger until the needle goes through completely. You can let go once the needle is fully on the other side, and just keep pulling the thread all the way.

pull the thread all the way
thread being pulled to form French knot

Once the needle is pulled all the way, you end with a beautiful, tidy knot like this!

finished French knot

 

You can repeat the steps to create as many knots as you want, all close together, or further apart depending on what you’re stitching.

 

clusters of finished french knots

 

When I worked on my raspberries, I wanted my French knots to be close enough together, with a few spaces for adding beads later.

 

first embroidered raspberry with french knots

 

Final Thoughts

There are so many possibilities with this stitch, and I think you will have a lot of fun with it if you try it and practice a few times!! I know it sounds a bit convoluted when detailed out like this (this is a stitch that is very quick to make, but writing it out makes it seem a bit long!), but it’s really not as bad as it might sound.  A video tutorial would probably be best suited for this stitch, and I hope to make one someday soon! I’m not very equipped for making videos at the moment, but it’s something I’d be interested in trying if there’s enough interest. Let me know if you think that would be helpful for you!

I hope you enjoyed my tutorial, and please let me know if you give it a try! If you already know how to do it, do you also really like it? What other stitches would you be interested in learning? Let me know in the comments!

In the meantime, check out my other stitch tutorials!

 

the chain stitch easy tutorial
Chain stitch & lazy-daisy stitch
Straight stitch, running stitch, backstitch, stem stitch, & split stitch

You can find all stitch tutorials under the “Tutorials” -> “Stitches” section in the menu, or by clicking the images above.

Happy stitching my friend, and I hope you have fun with the French knot!

 

Fondly,

learn how to do the french knot
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Awesome Bullion Knot Hack

     Anne      4 Comments

Who here hates bullion knots? There’s absolutely no shame. They are a beast.

bullion knots made easy

I used to not even like the finished look of them, but I do know. They’re amazingly textured and three-dimensional and really bring the embroidery game to the next level. BUT.

THEY ARE SO ANNOYING TO STITCH.

Admittedly, I haven’t tried very hard. I have a skin condition called hyperhidrosis that makes me sweat from the hands uncontrollably. It’s like having a faucet that never turns off. It doesn’t matter if it’s cold and I’m at my most relaxed, I will still sweat. This makes embroidery very difficult sometimes, but it makes certain stitches pretty much impossible. The bullion knot is one of them. It can be hard enough for dry-handed stitchers, but with sweaty hands, boy oh boy! I don’t recommend AT ALL.

So needless to say, I gave up pretty fast when I tried it. I was also in a huge rush, because the project I was working was a Christmas gift and Christmas was coming SOON. I picked a project that had about 300 bullion knots and I had never worked with them.

Why did I do this to myself, you ask? Great question.

To be fair, I didn’t count them beforehand. I honestly didn’t think it could be that bad, and I really wanted to stitch the beautiful lilac branch from Carol Andrews’s Embroideries From an English Garden. I also like a good embroidery challenge. (You can find the full blog post on this project and its inspiration from Jane Eyre here.)

flat lay view of embroidered lilac branch journal cover
close up of embroidered lilac flowers and beads

But after spending 15 minutes on one bullion knot with my sweaty hands that made the thread impossible to glide through the coil, I was ready to give up. I seriously considered stitching the lilac flowers in a completely different way. But after playing around for a bit, my sweating intensifying with every passing second as Christmas drew closer, I found an incredibly easy way to achieve the bullion knot look without actually stitching a bullion knot.

 

Amazingly Easy Bullion Knot Hack

Alright, so the traditional way to make a bullion knot is to wrap your thread several times around the needle shaft, tightening it with one hand to create a coil, and then pulling the needle through the coil with your other hand. It’s a stitch that takes a lot of practice, but it’s definitely possible and the results are worth it. But sometimes, sometimes you just can’t. And that’s okay, because there is ANOTHER WAY. A MUCH, MUCH EASIER WAY.

 

Begin by threading your needle and see this post on how to best anchor the thread to begin your stitches. Once you’re ready, bring your needle up from the back and make a straight stitch the size you want your bullion knot to be.

straight stitch

 

Come back up in the same hole (or very near) where you first came up to make the straight stitch (point A).

needle coming back up at point A

 

And this is where the magic happens. Slide your needle under the straight stitch and wrap your thread around it repeatedly, until it is all covered. Wrap it tightly, and guide it with the tip of your needle if need be (sometimes the wraps tend to pile on top of each other).

needle gliding behind straight stitch
needle wrapping around straight stitch for bullion knot hack
bullion knot hack in progress

 

When you get to the end, go back at point B, either in the same hole or just besides (it’s a bit more secure to go just besides).

going back down at point b to close the stitch

 

Sometimes the bullion knot will be a little loose from all the wrapping, but that’s ok. Place it however you want it to lay, and make a small anchoring stitch in the middle to hold it in place. It’ll blend in with the wraps.

finished bullion knot laying flat
bullion knot hack complete

 

AND THERE!!!! Isn’t this so much easier than the traditional method? And it LOOKS THE SAME, but it’s so much less aggravating!! No one needs to know it’s not an actual knot. 😉 This is the method I used for my lilac branch project and it worked so well and I was so pleased with the result!!

lilac branch project bullion knot lilac flowers close-up

 

What do you think? Are you a fan of bullion knots in general? Leave me a comment if this tutorial was helpful to you!

Fondly,

super easy bullion knot hack
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Easy Chain Stitch Tutorial

     Anne      Leave a Comment

Who’s ready to learn more stitches with me? Today, I’ve put together a tutorial on how to do the chain stitch and the detached chain stitch (commonly known as the lazy-daisy stitch). I absolutely love the lazy-daisy and use it all the time. So I’m excited to share it with you! Back in March, I wrote a post on the first 5 stitches you should learn as a beginner, and I definitely encourage you to have a look at it to learn the basics. Today’s tutorial also features an easy stitch, perfect for beginners and widely used in surface embroidery. So grab your needle and thread & let’s go! For a list of all the materials you need to get started with embroidery, check out this post.

 

chain stitch easy embroidery tutorial

 

First things first, you’ll need to cut some embroidery floss, about the length of your forearm. I will be using 3 strands of DMC #3818 throughout this tutorial, but feel free to use more (or less). Then, thread your needle and either knot the end of your thread or anchor it to the fabric using any of the methods detailed in this post (or any other way you know of starting embroidery)

 

The Chain Stitch

 

I’ll be honest, I really don’t use this stitch very often. I usually kinda forget about it. I really like it though, and it’s super easy. It just never seems to work with anything I’m stitching for some reason haha!

 

To begin, bring your threaded needle up from the back at point A. Pull the thread all the way through.

 

thread pulled all the way through at point A to begin chain stitch

 

Go back down in the same hole (A), and bring the needle up at point B in the same swoop. Don’t pull all the way.

 

needle going back down at point A
needle going back down in A and up in B

 

Pull the needle through gently, pulling until the thread forms a loop. Bring your needle through that loop, and pull through.

 

needle being pulled through point B
Pull the needle through until you get a loop big enough to go through it.
thread going through the loop to form chain stitch
Bring your needle through the loop.
loop being pulled down
Since point B is below point A, the loop will eventually be pulled down to lay where it’s meant to.

 

Sometimes you might need your other hand or the tip of your needle to help guide the loop, as it can have a tendency to twist and won’t lay properly.

 

first chain of the chain stitch complete
Pull the thread trough the loop until it rests nicely on the fabric.

Go back down into the same hole again, where your thread currently is (point B), and bring your needle up at point C. This is the same motion as before, when you started your first stitch.

 

needle going back through point B and up at point C
Go down B and up C before pulling the needle through.

Pull the needle and thread through until you get a loop of thread, just like in the previous steps. Make the sure the needle goes through and then pull all the way so the loop will lay flat.

 

second chain stitch being pulled through
two connected chain stitches laying flat

 

Keep repeating these steps until you have the chain length you want! Basically, you always go back down in the same hole you came up.

 

chain stitch in progress

 

To end the chain, simply take a small stitch on the outside of the loop to close it.

 

closing the last stitch

 

view of the last closed chain stitch

And there you go, that’s the chain stitch!

 

The Detached Chain or Lazy-Daisy Stitch

 

If I never use the chain stitch, I most certainly always use its detached version 😉. As you might have guessed, this is essentially a single link of the chain stitch. It’s commonly referred to as the lazy-daisy stitch, and will seem super simple after working the chain stitch!

 

Begin the same way as above. Bring your needle up from the back at point A. Go back down through A and up in B, pulling until you form a loop. Thread your needle through that loop and pull.

 

needle going down in A and back up in B
needle going through loop
thread being pulled through loop for chain stitch

 

Pull the loop down until it lays nice and flat.

 

loop being pulled down to lay flat
chain loop laying flat on the fabric

 

So far, that’s exactly the same as the chain stitch. If you wanted to continue the chain, then you’d go back down in the same hole again and keep going until you got the length you wanted.

 

But for the lazy-daisy, all you need to do is end the stitch there, as though you were finishing the chain length.

 

Take a small stitch on the outside of the loop to secure it.

 

small stitch on the outside of the loop to hold chain stitch down

 

And that’s it!

 

finished detached chain stitch

 

I can’t tell you how much I love that stitch. It’s so incredibly useful for leaves and flower petals. Plus it’s pretty quick to work!

 

I hope this tutorial was helpful to you and that you’ll enjoy working the chain stitch and its detached version. I tell you, the lazy-daisy can be such a lifesaver! I used it a lot in my Redwork Embroidery Box Project, and generally love it for small flowers and leaves.

 

the lazy-daisy stitch embroidery tutorial

 

Let me know if you have any more questions about it in the comments, or feel free to share the love for this stitch too 🙂

 

Fondly,