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The Diary of a Northern Belle

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THE LATEST

Floral Garden Bunting Project: a Wrap-Up on the 2023 Stitch-Along

Fall Floral Embroidery Pattern: Calendula Wreath

“Embroideries From an English Garden” by Carol Andrews – Book Review

vintage inspiration

Make Darling Embroidered Buttons: Tutorial

September 4, 2021      Anne      Leave a Comment

Hello and welcome back to my blog! In today’s post, I have a new tutorial for you – we’re going to make embroidered fabric-covered buttons. 😊 They’re soooo much fun and very easy to make.

 

embroidered buttons step-by-step tutorial

 

One of the things I love the most about embroidery is how easily you can weave it anywhere you want, especially on clothing. The endless possibilities for embellishing your clothes with embroidery are mind-blowing. What better way to create something absolutely uniquely yours. In my last year of Costume Studies, I tried to incorporate embroidered touches as much as I could in the projects we got to make for ourselves.

 

Buttons on a Dress

 

I designed and sewed this cute lilac dress for an assignment in Draping, and couldn’t resist the opportunity to add a bit of embroidery.

 

girl in a field wearing lilac dress with embroidered buttons
girl in field wearing lilac dress holding flower bouquet up to her face

 

I had previously discovered (and became enamoured with) fabric-covered buttons while working on an assignment for another class. They were so fun and easy to work that I knew I had to get my own kit for making them.

They don’t have to be embroidered of course, you can definitely just cover them with any fabric you like. But everything is better with embroidery, so I just had to give it a go. I love how they look on this dress. They’re so cute and dainty and exactly what I had in mind.

 

close-up of embroidered buttons on dress front

 

Embroidered Fabric-Covered Buttons Tutorial

 

Without further ado, let me show you how to make your own! It’s very easy and adds such a detailed personal touch. The embroidery is very small though, so it might be a bit challenging in that respect, but it also means the design isn’t very detailed.

The tiny flower cluster I went with is very easy to stitch. Here we go!

 

Materials

 

First, you will want to gather the following supplies:

materials for making the embroidered buttons; button kit, fabric, paper scissors, fabric shears, snips, embroidery hoop, embroidery floss, needles, marking tools, wood block

 

You will need fabric, either to match an existing project, or something different entirely. The lilac fabric I used for my dress was 100 % cotton, and the pale turquoise I’m using for the tutorial is a cotton as well. I recommend using a medium weight fabric, or a thinner fabric with interfacing. You will also need fabric shears to cut the fabric.

 

Next, you will need basic embroidery supplies:

  • Snips
  • Needle (I used DMC #9 embroidery needle)
  • 3 1/4″ inch embroidery hoop (you can use a bigger one too if you’re making many buttons on the same piece of fabric)
  • Floss: for the tutorial, I used DMC #3347, #744, #402
  • Marking tools: A water-soluble pen (or any other “erasable” pen) is useful for this project and/or a pencil.

You will also need a button-covering kit. These can be found in fabric stores such as Fabricville (Canada) or Jo-Ann’s.

 

Inside the kit you should have:

 

  • Buttons to cover
buttons to cover

 

They have two parts. The top is shaped like a dome and has a smooth surface, and the back is a little disk with the shank on top.

button to cover separated; smooth surface top and bottom with shank

 

  • A plastic holder
plastic holder for covering buttons

 

  • A “pusher”
plastic pusher for covering buttons with fabric

 

  • Instructions and template

Don’t throw out the packaging! Likely, the kit’s instructions will be written on it. You will need the templates that are printed on the back of the package.

back instructions and templates for fabric-covered buttons

 

The kit you buy will tell you what button size is included. The one I got was for #24 buttons, so that means I will cut out #24 circular template on the back.

bottom of packaging shows what size of buttons and template to cut
circle template cut out from back packaging
The cutout template here is from another kit.

And lastly, you will need paper scissors to cut out the template, and an optional piece of wood (or other smooth and slightly heavy object) to help with making the buttons.

 

The Tutorial:

 

  1. Cut a piece of fabric to fit inside your embroidery hoop. Consider how many buttons you want to make. If you’re making the #24 size, you will need approx. 5/8” in between each.

fabric cut to fit inside small embroidery hoop

 

2. Mark the size of the button on your fabric to determine where to embroider. Normally markings are made on the wrong side of the fabric, but in this case that wouldn’t be very helpful. This is why an erasable pen works well, because you will be able to get rid of the mark easily. You can also use chalk or a heat-erasable pen if that works for you.

trace the button size on your fabric

 

3. Make any markings you might need for your embroidery design. Because it’s so small you might prefer not to mark anything. I used a 0.5 mechanical pencil to lightly mark the stem and leaf placement of my flower. If you want to make the same design I did, simply draw a vertical line for the main stem. Add two little lines at an upward angle about the middle of the stem, one on each side for the leaves. I also added two slightly longer lines angled upwards at the top of the stem for more “leaves”. You can definitely do all this with your thread though, and skip the markings entirely. I work more steadily with markings so I prefer to do it.

make any markings you need for your embroidery within the button size

 

4. Embroider the design. Place the fabric inside your hoop and tighten the screw until the fabric is nicely taut. Thread your needle with 2 strands of DMC #3347 or the colour of your choice. I’m using a knot to secure my thread because it makes the most sense for such a tiny area. See this post on how to start & end your threads for other methods.

 

a) Stitch the main stem and upper “leaves” with a splitstitch or other outline stitch of your choice. The leaves are so tiny that they’re just a small straight stitch.

b) Work French knots above the stem using two strands of DMC #402 and #744 to create the flower cluster. There is no real order to this, just scatter the knots as you wish to create a flower head or cluster form.

 

tiny flower embroidery tutorial

 

Embroidery is done! Secure your threads at the back and un-hoop your fabric.

 

5. Cut out the appropriate template at the back of your button kit packaging (I’m using size 24) and place it evenly over your embroidery. You can do this at the back too, but I find it’s more accurate to do it on the good side. Trace the template with a pencil or erasable pen. This creates the seam allowance necessary to cover the button successfully.

place the circle template over your embroidery to cut seam allowance
seam allowance added all around the emroidery

6. Cut out your fabric along the template line you just marked.

cut out button cover with seam allowance

 

7. Take the plastic holder, and center your embroidered fabric over its hole. The original marking you made of the button top should fit right along the edge of the white thing. You can also center the white thing on your fabric right side up first if that’s easier, then slowly turn it around so that the fabric is closest to you, good side facing the hole.

place the plastic holder right over the embroidery, the original button marking right around the edge of the holder
flip the holder over so that the fabric rests good side down against it

8. Place the button top smooth face down on the fabric. Make sure it’s well centered over the embroidery.

button dome face down over embroidered fabric

 

9. Push down with your thumb, or the pusher provided in the kit (I like to use a piece of wood to push down on the pusher to make it even easier). The button top will end up at the bottom of the holder and the seam allowance will fold on itself around the dome. If you see that the button isn’t straight, that there is too much fabric on one side and not enough on another, you can pop the button out and start again, re-centering your fabric better.

thumb pushing the button to the bottom of the holder
pusher is put over the button piece, and a block of wood used to push down on it

10. If you’re satisfied with the eveness of the seam allowance, push down gently on it even more to make sure none of it sticks out. Add the button back, shank facing up atop the folded seam allowance.

seam allowance folds on itself around the button dome inside the holder
button back placed atop the folded seam allowance, on top of the holder

11. Here is where the pusher is definitely useful! Place it over the shank (the hole covering the shank) and push down until you feel it sink in to the button top. I like to use the piece of wood again to push down, but you can do it with your palm or another object.

pusher placed over the shank of the button back
hands pushing a wooden block on the plastic pusher to secure button back

12. Pop the button out of the holder.

hands pushing the covered button out of the holder

 

13. Pray and hope the embroidery is well-centered.

embroidered fabric-covered button

 

14. CONGRATS, YOU DID IT!!!!! Look at that cute little button!

finished embroidered button seen from the front

And that’s it! Now you’re ready to cover everything with embroidered buttons. 😉

 

how to make a covered button step-by-step tutorial

 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it will give you some inspiration for adding subtle and delicate touches of embroidery to your work. The good news with this sort of embroidery, too, is that it doesn’t take long at all, but really pulls an outfit together.

The lilac dress would be very different without the embroidered buttons.

 

lilac dress close-up on embroidered buttons down bodice front
close-up of top embroidered button on lilac dress bodice front

 

I added embroidery to the back as well, but not because I wanted to add more delicate touches. No, I added embroidery there BECAUSE I CUT A HOLE WITH THE SERGER. A big, super noticeable gash right in the middle of the mid-riff section, just before my project was due. If you know me, this is EXACTLY the kind of stupid mistake I often make and there is zero surprise in this happening, BUT IT WAS A SAD MOMENT.

 

view of embroidered bodice on lilac dress back

 

Thankfully, embroidery is here to solve all your problems, so I just mended it with matching thread first, then covered up the ugly scar with a little branch of some nondescript purple flower.

HA! TAKE THAT, SERGER.

 

model wearing lilac dress in field leaning forward with flower bouquet

 

Thank you for coming to “Part 75 Why Anne Will Never Buy a Serger”.

Have a lovely week and happy button-covering!

 

Fondly,

learn how to make embroidered buttons
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Garden Bouquet PART 1: A Most Ambitious Project

July 31, 2021      Anne      Leave a Comment

Dear friend, are you ready to embark upon a serious embroidery endeavour with me? I have here, sketched, planned, and transferred, the most ambitious embroidery project I’ve ever attempted: a beautiful garden bouquet. I’m equal parts nervous and excited about it. It will feature techniques I haven’t tried yet, some tried-and-true favourites, and of course, loads of beautiful flowers!

 

A Garden Bouquet Embroidery Project

 

Let’s go on a garden tour and I will show you the inspiration behind the pattern. I suggest you put on your best hat and gloves, and you mustn’t forget a basket for you will surely wish to pick a few blooms for yourself. 😉 We are going to visit my grandmother’s garden.

 

red rose
What’s a grandmother’s garden without a rose?

 

catnip flower bed
A big patch of catnip of the prettiest purple

 

white peonies bush
The peonies this year were particularly impressive

 

close-up of a white peony

 

flowering wild rose bush
And just look at this wild rose tree!!

 

A Garden Bouquet

 

The title of this piece is “Bouquet du Jardin Turenne”, which is French for “Turenne Garden Bouquet”. As far as I can remember, my grandparents have always had the most beautiful garden. My childhood memories are full of colourful flower-beds, well-tended and orderly, where butterflies swirl and birds chirp. I remember being sent to pick currants with my brothers and cousins, and I remember the smell of thyme and fallen rose petals.

 

cluster of pink wild roses

My fondest memory of the garden however, has to be the raspberries. On either side of the house, there grows the biggest, juiciest and most perfect raspberries of all. They are truly unequaled. And there was always such a quantity of them!

 

Sketching the Design

 

Such happy, wonderful moments were spent in my grandparents’ garden. I have many cousins, and we all cherish fond memories of outdoor fun and botanical lessons. My grandparents recently celebrated 55 years of marriage, and although my gift will be late, I really wanted to make something worthy of the occasion. The idea of an embroidered bouquet inspired by their garden had been brewing in my mind for a while, and in fact I started sketching the piece about a year ago.

 

garden bouquet sketch with selected dmc threads and Gone With the Wind pouch

 

If you know me, you know I will tell you I’m no sketcher. I belong to the race of those “who can’t draw”. But as all the experts say, anybody can draw. You just need a lot of patience and determination. Well, this is no Mona Lisa, but I’m really proud to say that after many efforts, endless erasing and frustration, I managed to sketch this entire design by myself. I had recourse to Pinterest for reference images, but I actually drew the whole thing! I’m so happy with this achievement. Even if the embroidery completely fails, I will be proud of this at least!

 

close-up of the garden bouquet final sketch

 

Picking the Flowers

 

Choosing which florals to include was a massive task. I began by recruiting my mom to help me make a list of as many flowers as we could name from the grandparents’ garden. There have been A LOT over the years. I wanted the bouquet to represent the most staple specimens of the garden, while also staying balanced. For this reason, an apple tree branch was painstakingly drawn and unfortunately erased. I wanted to feature some of my favourites from the garden, as well as elements I knew were also special to my grandparents.

 

sketchbook page showing garden bouquet embroidery pattern

 

Therefore, our final contestants were the wild roses, the raspberries, the day lily, the currants, and yellow daisies. I began to realize, as I sketched and pondered that nearly all the elements I wanted to include were similar colours; pink roses, red raspberries, red currants, pink lily. It needed a splash of yellow so I added the daisies at the end. Originally I envisioned the lily orange, but Mom assures me that there never was an orange lily in my grandparents’ garden (I must have confused it with ours). So light pink it will be.

 

dmc embroidery thread in various shades of pink; stitching accessories - needles, snips, thimble

 

How to Begin Such a Project

The overall size of the bouquet isn’t very big, approx. 9 1/2″x 8″ and just fits in a 10 1/2″ hoop (the title is too close to the hoop edge, but that’s ok), but there are many elements fairly close together. As I mentioned earlier, I will use different techniques to embroider, so I think the best way to proceed is to break it down into sections. Ideally, it’s best to work back to front; you start with the elements the most in the background, and build onto it. That way, you achieve a more natural effect.

Since many of my flowers and leaves overlap each other, I’ve decided to work on it one species at a time instead. It will be less confusing to organize and keep track of threads, and I won’t have to switch techniques continuously.

 

Transferring the Pattern

Once I was happy with my sketch came the fun part of transferring the design onto my fabric. I chose a nice, thick off-white cotton with a broad enough weave to support some ribbonwork. Unfortunately it was rather hard to mark with the pencil! I normally make a copy of my pattern by tracing it with a fine Sharpie on a piece of tracing paper. Then I use a lightbox and a mechanical pencil to transfer the pattern onto the fabric.

 

garden bouquet embroidery design traced onto tracing paper

 

It did work and overall the markings should be satisfactory enough, but a heat-erasable or water-soluble pen might have been useful to go over some lines. Thankfully, the main outlines and positions of all the flowers and leaves are visible, so that’s all that really matters. It’s usually better to have fewer markings on the fabric than too many. If you look at my original sketch vs. what I transferred to the fabric, you’ll see that all the little details are missing.

garden bouquet sketch close-up
pattern transferred onto the fabric
This is a terrible photo, but it illustrates my point lol

That’s intentional, because not only is it really hard to get fine, precise lines transferred on fabric, but it’s also a bit of a waste of time, because all those details are added at the end usually on top of existing stitches. So I like to include details in my sketch for reference, but on the actual fabric, the needle and thread will do all the work 😉.

 

Up next: The Wild Rose

close-up of a pink wild rose

 

I will be starting with the branches of wild roses, since they will be the most time-consuming. I’ve pulled out as many shades of pink as I could find, and I’ll be working them in long & short stitch to achieve the art needlework effect.

 

close-up of garden bouquet sketch showing branch of wild roses

 

I’m really excited, and I can’t wait to show you the result! Stay tuned for the next instalment of this Garden Bouquet project, as the roses bloom and we can admire them together. Thank you so much for joining me on my needlework adventures!

 

Check out these other posts if you like floral embroidery with a vintage vibe:

ripening raspberries embroidery & pressed botanicals project
lilacs of love inspiration from jane eyre
wisteria embroidery inspired by The Enchanted April

 

And I’ve got a FREE embroidery PDF pattern for you as well if you haven’t grabbed it already: Wisteria PDF Embroidery Pattern, or check out my new Etsy shop!

 

Happy stitching and until next time!

Fondly,

Garden Bouquet Embroidery Part 1
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Ripening Raspberries: Embroidery & Pressed Leaves

July 17, 2021      Anne      2 Comments

Let’s go berry-picking together, shall we? My embroidered raspberries are ripe and ready to be plucked! I had so much fun working on this week’s project. I’ve been playing with combinations of pressed botanicals and embroidery over the last few months, and I LOVE the results! I think they go so well together. It’s also much faster to finish a project since you save on embroidery time!

 

raspberry embroidery beads and pressed leaves

 

I don’t think a summer goes by where I don’t eat a copious amount of raspberries, even if it’s the store-bought ones. They’re one of my favourite fruits and it doesn’t feel like summer without them! Unfortunately this year, our red raspberry bushes only produced about five berries. ☹ They’re supposed to produce twice, so fingers crossed for the end of summer/beginning of fall. On the other hand, our black raspberry bushes were incredibly generous for their size! We didn’t have quite enough to bake desserts or make jam, but there was enough to stuff my face whenever I went out to pick them 😉. They’re smaller and firmer than red raspberries, but they’re really good, especially when picked under the warm sun.

 

black raspberries in nature

 

Ripening Raspberries

 

To fill the void left by the absence of red raspberries, naturally I had to embroider some. There’s an abundance of wild raspberry bushes at the edge of the woods on the way to the forest (which don’t produce much fruit either), and last spring I gathered a lot of leaves. Some were left to dry to make tea blends, and others were pressed with every intention of using them in such a project as this at some point. I really love the idea of combining embroidery and pressed botanicals in the same project!

 

flat lay view of raspberry embroidery finished piece, pressed raspberry leaves and teacup filled with black raspberries

 

The vision in my head was that of a branch laden with juicy berries and beautifully pressed leaves. I knew I wanted to use beads to make the raspberries sparkle. So I got my herbarium and my sketchbook out and began to design…

 

finished raspberry embroidery piece with red thread

 

Embroidered Raspberries ~ My Creative Process

 

1. Designing the Pattern

rough sketch for raspberry embroidery pattern

 

Confession: I don’t like designing. The sketching of what I want is my absolute least favourite part of the whole process. I’ve never been very good at drawing, so I find it frustrating not to be able to reproduce the wonderful idea in my head on paper. I’m working on it and trying to sketch more to get better, but it can be a real struggle sometimes.

Fortunately, you don’t need a great sketch to produce a beautiful piece of embroidery. The needle and thread do all the work. In fact, you really just need a rough outline of what you want to stitch. And I didn’t even have to worry about the leaves since I wasn’t going to embroider them. All I had to plan was their placement (which ended up changing anyways!). So anyways, step 1 is to sketch/plan where you want each element to go. As you can see this is a super rough sketch, but it’s all I needed for this project, thankfully.

 

2. Transferring Pattern on Fabric

raspberry pattern transferred on muslin fabric

 

I chose a piece of muslin for this project, because it’s a bit thicker and sturdier than my usual go-to factory cotton or linen. I knew the berries would end up being a little heavy with all the knots and beads, so I chose something more suitable than thin cotton. The off-white colour was also perfect for the colour scheme I had in mind. I used my lightbox and a mechanical pencil to transfer my design from my sketchbook to the fabric. Again, all I really needed was the main branch, a few stems and peduncles, and I just drew circles where I wanted the berries to be. The fewer markings on the fabric, the less you have to cover with thread later if you change your mind about something. I made the berry outlines smaller than their intended sizes to ensure they would be fully covered.

 

3. Choosing Thread Colours (and other materials)

embroidery threads and seed beads chosen to embroider the project

 

I had already picked some pressed raspberry leaves and played with them in Step 1 to determine where they would go on the finished piece, but there were still the threads to be chosen and the beads to find. I didn’t go out of my way to get anything specific and just used what I already had on hand. Consequently, I dug around in my floss box for thread that looked raspberry-coloured and found some slightly darker than what I envisioned, but still suitable. They’re from an unknown source (I have a lot of random thread bits in my box!) but their closest DMC matches could be #304 (Christmas red medium), and #777 (very dark raspberry). For the branch, peduncles, and sepals I used #937 and #3347. And finally, I located the perfect beads, a tiny bag hidden away with just enough for my project!!

 

4. The Stitching: Branch & Peduncles

embroidery in progress: main branch and stems

 

The first thing to embroider was the main branch and the little peduncles, since they are the elements the most in the background. I stitched a short stem where I knew I wanted to place a pressed leaf that didn’t have a stem. Near the bottom of the branch I left my pencil marks, since the leaves going there did have a stem already. I didn’t embroider the little thorns at this point, just the main outline. I used a split stitch and DMC #937, and made certain areas look “thicker” by doing two rows. This was to make the branch look more natural and less uniform. I stitched everything using two strands of thread, unless otherwise noted.

 

5. Embroidering the Raspberries

first embroidered raspberry with french knots
embroidered raspberries in french knots

 

Normally, the leaves would be next, but since they’re not embroidered, they will be placed at the very last, otherwise they will certainly break as I manhandle the hoop to get the berries done. So berries it is instead! I used French knots first, starting with #304 and ending with #777. I didn’t completely fill the areas to leave a bit of space for the beads. Once I was satisfied with that and each berry was filled with French Knots, I added a few more details to my branch.

 

6. Branch Details

straight stitches along the main branch for thorns

I did a few straight stitches using only 1 strand of thread along the main branch to represent the thorns (still in DMC #937). I also stitched the little sepals on top of the raspberries in lazy-daisy stitches using DMC #3347.

 

7. Adding Beads

embroidered raspberries close-up showing the beads used to add detail

 

Once that was done, I went back to my berries to add the beads! This was definitely the most exciting part of the project!! I used seed beads; some red, and others in this iridescent pink and red with touches of yellow. I’m so happy with the result of this!! I used silk sewing thread (not necessary, but the colour was the closest match to the berries). The seed beads are pretty small, so I needed a beading needle to be able to stitch them on. They’re long and have a very thin shaft so that the beads slide through no problem!

I stitched my beads on very randomly, switching between the two kinds and adding them where I had left space in between my French knots and in other little spots where it looked like one was needed. I absolutely love how ripe and juicy they look!! Beads really make such a difference in embroidery, I love it!

 

8. Adding the Leaves

pressed raspberry leaves glued on with elmer's glue and paintbrush

 

And now for the finishing touch – the leaves!! I ended up adding more than I originally planned and slightly changed the placement of some, but I’m SO happy with the result!! I added another little 3-leaf cluster at the very top and love the effect. Its leaves weren’t pressed completely flat, but that small detail adds a bit of dimension to the piece. I’m so glad I pressed a few of those! I had many larger leaves, but only two smaller clusters. I used Elmer’s transparent school glue and a paintbrush to glue the leaves to the fabric. I’ve tried this before with other pressed florals and it seemed to work, but if anyone knows of a better way (or better glue) to do this, please let me know!

 

close-up of finished piece
close-up of embroidered raspberries and pressed leaves

 

Finishing the Piece 

Now I just need to find a good way to frame/display the piece that will protect the dried flowers! Again, suggestions welcome. It’s a bit tricky because the leaves are flat but my berries are pretty 3D. I fear a glass frame would crush them. A shadow box might work? I shall have to experiment a bit and figure something out :). There has to be a good solution to this.

 

full view of finished piece
side view of finished piece
finished embroidery work with black raspberries
I managed to find TWO red raspberries for my photos LOL!

 

I hope you enjoyed this behind-the-scenes look at how I embroidered my raspberries! What do you think of the embroidery/pressed leaves combination? I’m hoping to make more of this sort of thing in the future – maybe next time I’ll use pressed flowers and embroider the leaves. I know I’ll most definitely be using beads again, they add so much charm and life! I fell in love with beads and embroidery when I worked on my Loving Lilacs Inspired from Jane Eyre, and I knew I had to try it again. My next project involving beads will probably feature blackberries…the time for picking them is fast approaching and those bushes are looking much more generous than the raspberries! 😉

 

Thank you so much for reading my blog and I wish you a lovely day! You can also find me on Instagram and Etsy!

Fondly,

ripening raspberries: an embroidery project
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Loving Lilacs in “Jane Eyre”

June 16, 2021      Anne      6 Comments

I should have made it as hard for you to leave me, as it is now for me to leave you.

Charlotte Brontë, JANE EYRE
lilacs in jane eyre embroidery project

 

Reader, I absolutely love Jane Eyre. I first saw it in the spring of 2011. My mom and I would periodically rent period drama DVDs from our local library, and we decided to give the 2006 mini-series a go over the Easter weekend. I don’t think either of us had ever been more mesmerized by a movie, ever. We were so caught up in the story that we watched all four hours of it with no sense of passing time at all. My, but was it captivating!

 

Watching Jane Eyre every spring is now tradition for us (and we’ve started watching it over Christmas too) and it seems to get better every time. I’ve since seen many other adaptations, but none is as good as this one. I read the book in the summer of 2012, and fell even more in love with it than ever. I remember there being lots of rain and thunderstorms nearly every evening I read the book, which suited itself so perfectly to the atmosphere.

 

Jane Eyre is now forever evocative of the late spring/early summer season, of blooming flowers, rain-soaked trees, and thunderstorms.

 

hardcover summer special edition of Jane Eyre surrounded by fresh lilacs

 

I love it to the moon and back.

 

There’s something I’ve always found irresistible about love stories between a governess and the master of the house. And while romance is certainly not this novel’s only merit, it is rather center stage and one of the greatest love stories in English literature (probably in all literature, lol).

 

While researching my Honours project on the relationship between the Language of Flowers and hand embroidery in the Victorian era, I came across several examples of its use in literature as well. The wonderful Language of Flowers companion, A Victorian Flower Dictionary by Mandy Kirkby discussed the significance of the lilac flower in Jane Eyre.

 

Lilac: First Emotions of Love

 

blooming lilac tree

 

It’s no surprise, then, that the lilac appears during the love declaration scene. (Spoiler alert if you haven’t read this book yet!!) When Jane and Rochester passionately declare their feelings for each other, they’re standing in front of a blooming lilac tree. This is the scene where you get the famous I AM NO BIRD AND I WILL NOT BE CAGED quote.

 

I am no bird; and no net ensnares me: I am a free human being with an independent will; which I now exert to leave you.

Charlotte Brontë, Jane Eyre

 

Ok, I was off, but it’s such an incredible moment in this story! (and one which so many of the film adaptations had trouble capturing, but don’t get me started!)

 

Although technically neither are experiencing the “first” emotions of love at that moment since their feelings built over time, the lilac is still significant. For Jane it’s the first time she’s ever been in love and is able to give in to her feelings. For Rochester it’s certainly the first time he’s known true love. (I make this sound like some sort of sappy fairytale, but I assure you it’s not!! :P)

 

And during that scene under the lilac tree, it’s the first time they finally confess their feelings. Even though you, dear reader, know they will fall in love from the moment they meet (again with the syrupy fairytale…).

 

real lilac branch overshadowing Jane Eyre book and embroidery

 

I knew when I came across that passage in Kirkby’s book that I would have to embroider lilacs in honour of Jane Eyre. I already had a project in mind, this insanely gorgeous branch from a pattern by Carol Andrews in her book Embroideries from an English Garden.

 

embroidered lilac branch surrounded by fresh lilac

 

It’s a bit ambitious, especially since I’d never tried the bullion knot before (and the instructions called for EIGHT per flower!), but I was determined to give it a go.

 

Lilac Embroidery

I can safely say that this is hands-down my favourite thing I’ve ever embroidered. It turned out so well, despite some insanely last-minute stitching that became pretty stressful. I wanted to turn the embroidery into a journal cover as a Christmas gift for my mom, but in classic me style I left most of the stitching until the last few days before Christmas and I was STRESSED. But I did it! And boy am I happy with it!

 

view of finished embroidery surrounded by fresh lilac

 

It’s really the beads that do it for me, they add so much charm and life to it, I just love it. I’m definitely using beads again in future embroideries!

 

The project is honestly not even that hard, it’s just really time-consuming because there are many layers to think of.

First, the leaves, stems, and branch. I used long & short stitch and whatever green threads I had on hand that matched the recommended ones as closely as possible (gotta do what you gotta do when the fabric store is closed). The instructions called for fancy Madeira silk threads and Appleton crewel threads, but unfortunately I had none of those. I made do with good ol’ DMC cotton floss for everything. I think I worked in 2 strands to make the process go a little bit faster.

 

close up of embroidered lilac leaf

 

Then, I continued with the flowers. Each petal has a layer of satin stitch underneath the bullion knots to ensure the fabric won’t show through. Again, I used whatever lilac-y mauves and purples I could find. Once I finished satin-stitching all the petal bases, it was time to attack those bullion knots.

 

By that point, I had tried to make a bullion knot ONCE and was only mildly successful. It was December 22nd at this point and I was tempted to just…not.

I tried the bullion knot again and failed miserably several times. There was no way I would finish on time unless I performed a miracle.

 

So I did.

 

close up of embroidered lilac flowers and beads

 

(If only I could do that with anything, hahaha!)

 

As you can see, the result is highly satisfying and looks just like an actual bullion knot. But of all the knots pictured here, only ONE was made using the actual bullion-knot way. The rest, I just magically willed into existence 😉

 

I came up with what I think is a GENIUS hack for those dreaded bullion knots. Doubtless others before me have thought of it, but I was pretty happy for coming up with a solution by myself.

 

I’ve prepared a lovely little tutorial for you all, in which I spill the beans on my genius hack so that you too can tackle bullion knots with no fear whatsoever.

 

See this post if you want to learn it: Awesome Bullion Knot Hack.

 

You’ll never be scared of bullion knots again, and no one will be the wiser.

 

close up view of embroidered lilac branch

 

All in all, I think I did one of my favourite books justice with Carol Andrews’ incredible pattern. This was totally worth it, but next time I’M STARTING IT AHEAD OF TIME. I say this every single time and never learn. *sigh*

 

Useful Links

 

  • If you’re interested in more of my fangirling over Jane Eyre, head on over to my Goodreads, where I reviewed the book in which I set the spooky atmosphere and tell you imagine Jane walking down a misty path and bewitching a man’s horse.
  • The absolutely gorgeous summer hardcover special edition was a gift from one of my dearest friends, and it’s from Chapters (or Barnes & Nobles, if you’re in the USA).
  • If you want to read Jane Eyre for free, you can download a free copy at Project Gutenberg or borrow it online at Open Library.
  • Carol Andrews’s Embroideries from an English Garden: Chapters or Amazon US.
  • A Victorian Flower Dictionary: The Language of Flowers Companion by Mandy Kirkby: Chapters or Barnes & Nobles.

 

And with all this, let’s end on this fabulous quote:

The soul, fortunately, has an interpreter – often an unconscious but still a faithful interpreter – in the eye.

Brontë, Jane Eyre

 

May it inspire you in turn to stitch some blooming flowers and read (or re-read) Jane Eyre. For the best film adaptations and which ones to avoid like the plague, don’t hesitate to get in touch any time. DM me on Insta @northernbellediary or leave a comment or send me an email (anne.marie@diaryofanorthernbelle.com)😊. Also be sure to subscribe to my newsletter so you don’t miss my awesome bullion knot hack!

 

Fondly,

Embroidery inspiration lilacs from Jane Eyre
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FREE Embroidery Pattern & Tutorial: Wisteria Branch

June 12, 2021      Anne      4 Comments

Who’s ready for a hand embroidery pattern freebie? 🙂

 

embroidery freebie wisteria

Read on to download this sweet wisteria embroidery pattern & see the tutorial. 🙂 Last week, I introduced you to one of my new favourite novels, The Enchanted April, by Elizabeth von Arnim. We talked about how dreamy and escapist it was, and how much flower inspiration there was to be found in it. The wisteria in particular, proved to be a wonderful subject for embroidery!

 

If you haven’t seen that post, check it out here.

 

I showed you a bit of how I embroidered my wisteria-inspired project, and if you liked it then the good news is that I have more wisteria for you this week!

 

embroidered wisteria branch finished side view
embroidered wisteria branch finished view from top

 

I created this pattern so I could share my newfound love of wisteria with you all. Now you can stitch your own! May it bring you sunshine and happiness as promised in The Enchanted April.

 

The pattern is super simple and accessible to beginners. I only used three basic stitches: the split stitch, the lazy-daisy stitch, and a form of leaf stitch. Simply click on any of these for a full tutorial on how to work them.

 

See also: The Only Embroidery Tools You Really Need to know which basic materials you will need for this project.

 

DOWNLOAD YOUR PDF HERE: Wisteria Free Embroidery PatternDownload

 

Tutorial:

 

I used DMC floss, but you can use another brand if you like. You can find a good conversion chart here. I used 2 strands throughout the whole project.

 

#153 (Vy Lt. Violet)

#210 (Md. Lavender)

#470 (Lt. Avocado Green)

#553 (Violet)

#3011 (Dk. Khaki Green)

#3042 (Lt. Antique Violet)

 

See also this post on How to Start & End Your Stitches.

 

1. Branches

 

Begin by stitching the branches (or stems?) with #470 . Since the leaves and the flowers will go over it, it’s easier to start with it first. I used the split stitch, but feel free to use any other outline stitch that you like, such as the backstitch or the stem stitch. Stitch all the way down the middle of the flower cluster. Some of it will show through once the flowers are stitched. You can also stop the branch before the cluster if you don’t want it showing through or you want to make your flowers very tight together.

 

wisteria stem in split stitch

 

2. Leaves

 

There are many ways to embroider leaves, but I kept it super simple here and just stitched mine with a simple leaf stitch. The method I use is kind of a cross between satin stitch and fishbone stitch. Using 2 strands of #470, make a small straight stitch from the top of the leaf to the top of the guideline running down the middle vein.

 

leaf worked in straight stitches

 

Work your way down the leaf by starting your stitches on the outline of the leaf and ending on the middle guideline for the central vein. Make your stitches at a diagonal angle to keep the shape of the leaf. I like to work one side at a time (usually I start with the right).

 

leaf worked in straight stitches one side at a time

 

If you’re satisfied with the look of the leaves as they are after this step, you can skip the next step! I just wanted to add a bit more colour and texture to mine.

 

Using #3011, make a straight stitch down the middle of the leaf for the main vein. I also added two very small stitches on either side, also on a slight angle.

 

view of finished leaves

 

3. The Flowers

 

The flowers are all worked in lazy-daisy stitches, sort of scattered in a downward motion and fairly close together to create the droopy cluster effect. On your pattern, the dotted line indicates the shape the finished cluster will take. You don’t have to transfer that line on your fabric as it may leave marks if it’s not entirely covered in stitches. It’s more just to give you an idea of the finished size and shape. You can transfer the straight lines going down from the stem, as those should be all covered and will help you to guide the placement of your stitches.

 

You want to work your lazy-daisies downward, some going straight down, and others going at slight angles from the branch. There is no specific placement for each of them though, and this is a very forgiving flower for embroidery. One stitch or two out of place will only add shape to it! Have fun with it and experiment with where you place your stitches if you want to change the shape a bit, or the way it hangs.

 

lazy-daisy stitches embroidered along wisteria branch to create flowers
wisteria branch being filled with lazy-daisy stitches to create the flowers

 

I used #153, #3042 and #210 for the smaller branch, and #153, #3042 and #553 for the bigger one.

 

finished embroidery work

 

And there you go! I decided to add a little bow at the last minute to give it a more finished look. I used a piece of narrow white satin ribbon, tied it into a bow and sewed it to the base of the branch.

 

view of little white ribbon bow at base of wisteria branch

 

It looks pretty cute I think! I really hope you have fun stitching this wisteria pattern. This is the first “real” pattern I’ve ever made so I’m pretty excited. Any feedback will be super appreciated and I would love it if you show me your results! Tag me on Instagram @northernbelle.atelier if you try this wisteria pattern! 🙂 Also don’t hesitate to reach out for any questions or comments and be sure to subscribe to my newsletter for more embroidery content!

 

Fondly,

wisteria embroidery free pattern
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Wisteria Embroidery: Inspired by The Enchanted April

June 4, 2021      Anne      Leave a Comment

Ready for more springtime embroidery inspiration (it’s technically still spring though it feels like summer!)? This week is all about wisteria. The inspiration came from a classic novel that is now one of my favourites!

Discover the Enchanted April through embroidery

You know the feeling of being listless and unhappy, when the weather is cold and miserable and you just feel stuck in the same endless routine day in and day out? And then you scroll through social media and see travel ads for sunny beaches in the south or luxurious getaways in Europe?

What if you actually clicked on the ad and worse, actually went to the destination of your dreams? Just to escape life for a short month and be happy, for a change?

Oh, wouldn’t it be loverly!

Unfortunately, for most of us that is sadly not an option. Not realistic in the least. But hopefully, you aren’t listless and unhappy. And if you are, well this post is all about sunshine and happiness and is sure to lift your spirits up!

finished wisteria embroidery and The Enchanted April bookcover shown on iPad
You see, the heroines of Elizabeth von Arnim’s The Enchanted April were lucky enough to get their dreamy escape.

Because it’s fiction and it’s the 1920s in Europe and it’s a wonderful story, four women take the plunge and actually respond to the ad that comes their way. It promises wisteria and sunshine at a medieval castle in Italy. How does one resist?

Escaping their various dreary realities in rainy England, they journey to San Salvatore where they intend to spend a month doing nothing but recharging their batteries and admiring the lush, beautiful landscapes. And oh, is there ever something to admire! Von Arnim’s descriptions are absolutely breath-taking.

different cover of The Enchanted April shown on iPad

The setting she creates is as magical and escapist as it gets. Reading this book is like flicking through a Bliss Victoria magazine. It is all garden and flowers and relaxation and flowy tea gowns.

“[…] where the pergola ended the sun blazed on scarlet geraniums, bushes of them, and nasturtiums in great heaps, and marigolds so brilliant that they seemed to be burning, and red and pink snapdragons, all outdoing each other in bright, fierce colour.”

Elizabeth von Arnim, The Enchanted April.
finished wisteria embroidery against bottom half of Enchanted April bookcover on iPad

Oh, the beautiful, dreamy imagery!

(You can find my full review of the book (really it’s just more gushing) here on Goodreads.)

I picked up this charming novel in early April because it was the month’s selection at The Enchanted Book Club. I didn’t finish it on time, but I was inspired to create something from it as soon as I read the ad about wisteria and sunshine. The more I read, the more I realized it would be impossible to incorporate ALL the flowers mentioned in the book in my embroidery (unless I worked all year on it!), but the wisteria really stuck with me. The idea for the umbrella emerged from a sketch in my bullet journal setup for April, and I knew it would go perfectly with the wisteria!

 

Flower Meaning & Significance: Wisteria

 

Alright, confession: I’ve never seen wisteria, and I didn’t know what it looked like when I started reading. I knew it was some kind of flower, but I had no idea what it actually looked like! Does it grow in Canada? I think it’s definitely popular in Europe and in Japan, from the images that come up when you Google it.

 

branches of wisteria
Photo by Olya Kobruseva from Pexels

Growing in great big vine-like clusters and filling the air with their sweet fragrance, it’s no wonder that the wisteria would be greatly enticing in that newspaper ad. Imagine it growing all over the medieval castle walls, its branches hanging by your bedroom window!

“The wisteria was tumbling over itself in its excess of life, its prodigality of flowering, […]”

Elizabeth von Arnim, The Enchanted April.

I had to dig around a bit in a few Victorian flower dictionary to find its floriography meaning. My beloved Language of Flowers by Kate Greenaway did not have anything on wisteria. But I did find it in another A-Z dictionary of the same name. It was published in 1868 by Frederick Warne & Co. in London. (You can access it for free on Internet Archive here.)

 

The wisteria stands for welcome, fair stranger.

 

This meaning is very pertinent in the context of the story, since the flowering wisteria is in full bloom when the four ladies arrive at San Salvatore at the beginning of April. All being English, they are strangers to Italy, but receive a most warm welcome, not the least from the flowers. The wisteria is there to welcome them, in all its abundant purple glory. It starts to fade after the first week, just as the ladies are settling in, and makes way for the banksia roses.

 

finished wisteria hoop art against book cover of The Enchanted April on iPad

 

Other Interesting Meanings

 

Enough flowers are mentioned in The Enchanted April to fill a dozen blog posts and as many embroideries. I can’t discuss all of them, but of significance were also the daphne and the red camellia.

Daphne = Glory. Immortality.

Red Camellia Japonica = Unpretending Excellence.

 

flowering camellia bush
Photo by Ryutaro Tsukata from Pexels

I might have to do more posts on this book, and read the author’s other novel Elizabeth And Her German Garden. She was passionate about flowers, and it shows!

The Enchanted April has turned into the enchanted June at this point, but I think its overall vibe is still perfect for this time of year.

“Such a jumble of spring and summer was not to be believed in, except by those who dwelt in those gardens. Everything seemed to be out together – all the things crowded into one month which in England are spread penuriously over six.”

Elizabeth von Arnim, The Enchanted April

Wisteria in Embroidery

 

This project was immensely fun to work on, from the initial idea in my head to the finished piece. I will admit, there was a point where I grew disheartened with the whole thing and wanted to give up.

 

hoop in progress held up outdoors

I wasn’t loving the colour combination. The umbrella outline was far from perfect. The lace appliqué was shifting, and my wisteria embroidery felt all over the place.

So I walked away for a hot minute, and came back deciding to add pink. There is such a thing as pink wisteria, so it works! And I like the colours so much more now.

 

wisteria embroidery in progress showing clusters of pink and purple flowers

This piece isn’t very hard to stitch, but it was time-consuming and I did improvise my flower and leaf placement a lot!

I really wanted to use lace for the umbrella, so I found an old curtain and cut out my umbrella shape. I ran a running stitch all the way around to anchor it, and then did the outline in yellow pearl cotton thread with a stem stitch.

 

umbrella template on lace to make appliqué
lace appliqué being sewn on main fabric
stem stitch outline worked around lace appliqué

The handle and branches are worked in rows of split stitch, and the flowers are done in lazy-daisy stitches. I really had to pay attention to their direction so they would look “droopy” enough. The bunch on the right side looks almost like it’s being blown by the wind!

 

close up of wisteria branch cluster
Lazy-daisy stitches going in different directions to create a cluster effect. They all point downward, as a real wisteria branch would look.
wisteria umbrella embroidery in progress

I’m really happy with the result, and once I got going it was easy to create more branches. You can probably see that I went way off my original markings, which is partly why I used a water-soluble pen to transfer the pattern. I only had rough guidelines as to where I wanted everything to go, and in the end I changed the placement of a few things.

 

view of left side of wisteria branches in progress
lazy daisy stitches to form wisteria branch
close up of stitches wisteria leaves
The leaves are done in straight stitches placed a bit randomly 😛 They were so small that I didn’t really have a solid way of doing them, and just placed stitches until I was satisfied that it looked like a leaf.

Exciting News on What’s Next

 

I’m still tweaking and playing around with this pattern, but I hope to make it available for sale soon! Definitely let me know if you would be interested, and be sure to subscribe to my blog so you won’t miss when it comes out 😊. 

finished view of wisteria spilling out of umbrella in embroidery hoop

In the meantime, I’m also working on a freebie version still inspired from this book and my sketch! I hope to have that ready for you next week. There is already a lazy-daisy stitch tutorial available for you here, and you can also see this blog post for the other stitches I used in this project.

I hope this inspired you to want to stitch your own wisteria, or read The Enchanted April! I can’t recommend it enough. The book is available to read for free via Project Gutenberg if you’re interested! There are some typos, but it is unabridged (and free). It’s the version I read, once my library loan for a paperback copy expired.

I would love to hear your thoughts on spring flowers and dreamy escapes in the comments! Where would you go if you could escape for a month?

 

Fondly,

wisteria flower embroidery insiration
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Hello I'm Anne! Welcome to my little corner of the Internet where I share my passion for hand embroidery with you through tutorials and patterns. I hope that you enjoy browsing and leave with some new inspiration!

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~ Diary of a Northern Belle

Northern Belle Atelier is taking a break 🌸💖 Northern Belle Atelier is taking a break 🌸💖

Today (Feb. 09th) is the last day to place your order for any physical items in my shop (kits, needle minders, or finished works). I will be removing the listings over the weekend. PDF patterns will remain available for now, but they may be taken down at any time (so if you've had your eye on one, I suggest grabbing it before they're gone! 🥰).

I will also be tuning off Instagram in the coming days, but you can still reach me via my business emails if you need. My blog will remain up for the time being. 💕

Thank you ever so much for all the support you've shown my little business since I began sharing my embroidery here! It has meant so much to me to be able to do this, even if just in a small way. 💖🪡 Wishing you all some beautiful stitches ahead!

Anne
Xoxo
February Wreath aka "Victorian Valentine" pattern February Wreath aka "Victorian Valentine" pattern from last year 💖🌸🎀 I love this one so much and it's perfect for Valentine's Day coming up!

Find it in my Etsy shop 💜

(Sorry for the shaky video!!)
Needle minders will be leaving my shop soon!! 🍒 Needle minders will be leaving my shop soon!! 🍒 Snag a cute little fruity needle minder for your next embroidery project before February 9th! All remaining needle minders in my shop are 10% off until then 💕🍓🍒💛
✨️ IMPORTANT UPDATE ✨️ I will be disconti ✨️ IMPORTANT UPDATE ✨️

I will be discontinuing embroidery kits from my shop very soon, but I still have 2 left of this pretty summer wreath up for grabs!! 🌼🍓

I love this design and the kit comes with everything you need to make the project: two pieces of cotton fabric, thread card loaded with DMC floss, two needles, a good quality 6" hoop, and the PDF pattern! All presented in a handy folder to make it easy to keep everything together 🤍💛❤️

Visit my Etsy shop (linked in bio) if you're interested!! They won't be around for long!
Thank you so much for all the love on the Floral G Thank you so much for all the love on the Floral Garden bunting!! 💖🌷🌻 Following several inquiries from some of you who were missing some or all of the patterns from this project, I've decided to link them in a handy-dandy blog post for easier access! 💕 I've linked it via my bio if you want to have a look and get the patterns! I like to give my subscribers a bit of exclusivity, but since this project has now come to a close, I've decided to make it available to everyone. 🥰

I may also have taken that opportunity to write a bit about each flower, the inspiration behind the designs, and of course their meanings according to the Language of Flowers 😊🌿🌻 If that sounds of interest to you, read  the post to find out more! I've also linked some stitch tutorials that may be helpful. 

Happy stitching! 🎀🪡🌼

Anne
The Floral Garden stitch-along has come to a close The Floral Garden stitch-along has come to a close and the bunting has been sewn and hung! 🌻🌷🌿 what a joy it was to work on throughout the year, and I hope you've enjoyed it too! I'm thrilled with the final result 😍

Thank you so much for all the lovely comments and enthusiasm for this project. I've just sent the final instructions + bunting template to my email subscribers 💌 it isn't too late if you'd like to give this project a try - you can sign-up via the link in my bio and receive the links to all 12 floral motifs from last year + the instructions for the bunting!! 💕

The embroideries are beginner-friendly and perfect if you want to try a bit of needle-painting, and the bunting part is quite easy and quick to put together (compared to last year's mini-quilt haha!) 🌷💕🌿

Happy stitching!!
Winter Fox 🦊🤍🌲 I think this makes the fir Winter Fox 🦊🤍🌲 I think this makes the first completed embroidery for 2024! Absolutely loved working on this and love the mix of watercolor with embroidery! Can't get enough of the little pinecones 🤎
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