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Archives for November 2021

How to Finish the Back of an Embroidery Hoop For Framing

     Anne      2 Comments

You’ve just placed the very last stitch on your embroidery project and now you wonder – what to do with the finished piece? Likely, a lot of hard work went into it, and it surely deserves a place of choice. There are many different ways to use and display embroidery pieces, and one of the easiest ways to do so is to simply leave it in the embroidery hoop. By neatly finishing the back of the hoop to hide the wrong side of the embroidery and encase all seam allowances, you can turn a useful embroidery tool into the perfect frame!

 

how to back embroidery hoop (without glue)

 

Embroidery Hoop as a Frame?

The “hoop art” look is not for everyone, and I’ll admit that I wasn’t the biggest fan of it when I first started embroidery. To me, the embroidery hoop was only temporary, a tool to help me as I embroidered, but nothing more. I much preferred framing my pieces in real frames. It takes a bit more time and it can get more expensive, but it looks really stunning and suits certain styles of embroidery a lot better. Over time though, I’ve come to appreciate a good hoop as a frame.

For one thing, embroidery hoops are generally much cheaper than traditional frames, and for another it really is easier to leave it in. The fabric is already all nice and taut, and the placement of the screw allows you to hang it on the wall very easily.

I also came across beautiful faux wood hoops recently, and they are definitely a wonderful option for displaying embroidery! Prettier than normal bamboo hoops, they are more made to be hung on the wall than to keep the tension even as you stitch. They come in different sizes and shapes too, and you can find some in Michaels stores.

 

How to Finish the Back of a Hoop (Without Glue):

Again, as with many things regarding embroidery, there are many ways to finish the back of an embroidery hoop. Some like to use hot glue, a piece of cardboard, felt, a piece of pretty fabric, etc… There are many options. I personally prefer to stay away from glue if I can, and use a needle and thread. My method is a bit lengthier than many I’ve seen, but I find it neater.

To show you how I do it, I’ll be finishing my Blackberry Branch project from my Venetia post in one of those faux wood hoops I mentioned earlier.

flat lay showing finished blackberry branch embroidery in finished faux wood hoop, with haberdashery items, vintage teacup and dried plants in the background

The easiest way to back a hoop without glue is to use a piece of felt. Felt doesn’t fray, so you don’t have to worry about raw edges and it’s quicker to sew to your hoop. But what if you don’t have felt, or you’ve ransacked your stash and can’t find a suitable colour? Yes, this is what happened as I was preparing this tutorial. I couldn’t find a decent piece of felt that I liked for this hoop, so I came up with a different way to finish the back. It’s a few extra steps, but it looks amazing!

 

The Tutorial

1. First, there are two measurements we need, from the inside hoop ring. Gently pull it out from your work (or if you happen to have a second hoop of the same size, use that one!) and trace around the outside on a piece of light cardboard or cardstock paper. Cut the shape along the line you just traced and set it aside for now.

inner hoop ring placed on piece of carboard for cutting with an arrow drawn to show to cut on the outside of the ring

 

2. The second measurement we need from the inside ring is optional. Since I’m finishing a piece of rather heavy embroidery because of the beads, I’ve decided to add another layer of fabric to the back. I traced the inside circumference of the inner ring on a piece of felt (the felt I deemed too bright to show on the back) and cut it out. We can also set it aside for now.

inner hoop ring placed on felt piece with arrow pointing to cut along the inside of the ring

 

3. Now we need to trim the hoop allowance of the main fabric to about a ½” seam allowance all around.

embroidery hoop seen from good side with lots of hoop allowance all around
embroidery hoop seen from the wrong side with proper seam allowance for backing

 

4. Once that’s done, flip the hoop to the wrong side and place the piece of felt inside the hoop if you’ve decided to add it.

embroidery hoop seen from wrong side with cut piece of felt placed inside

 

5. Then, run a gathering stitch (running stitch) around the seam allowance to gather it against the inner hoop. Secure your thread and snip.

close-up of running stitch being sewn all around hoop seam allowance
hoop seen from the back showing gathered seam allowance towards the inside of hoop

The raw edges of the main linen fabric will continue to fray and I don’t like leaving the gathering visible, so I will further cover the back.

 

6. Using the cut out piece of cardboard from Step 1, place it over a piece of decorative fabric of your choice, on the wrong side. Add ½” seam allowance before cutting the fabric.

close-up of cardboard backing placed on wrong side of fabric for cutting

Note: If you want to finish the back of your hoop with felt, you don’t need the cardboard or cardstock. Simply cut out the felt to the size of the inner hoop without seam allowance.

 

7. With an iron, press your cut out piece of fabric to make sure there are no creases.

 

8. Working on the wrong side, center the piece of cardboard on the fabric. Sew a gathering stitch around the seam allowance. Pull to gather around the cardboard.

close-up of cardboard over fabric showing where to place gathering stitches along seam allowance
view of cardboard and backing fabric from the wrong side with running stitch sewn all around the seam allowance
gathered fabric around cardboard shape for backing hoop

 

9. Once you’ve secured and snipped your thread, we are ready to attach this piece to the back of the hoop. To do this, we will whipstitch the cardboard-covered fabric to the gathered seam allowance around the inner hoop ring. Use matching thread or contrasting thread to create a nice border if you have confidence in your whipstitching abilities. 😉

unfinished hoop lying wrong side up with backing fabric-covered beside it, right side up
close-up of wooden spool of brown thread against embroidery hoop
close-up of needle whipstitching backing to the back of embroidery hoop

 

And the hoop is now fully finished with a beautiful back and ready to be hung on the wall! I like knowing that there’s a pretty back behind the embroidery, even though no one will likely see it haha! Which is funny because I have a very different attitude when it comes to the back of the actual embroidery…if it’s going to be hidden, who cares about a neat back? Lol.

flat lay view of finished embroidery hoop with fabric backing seen from the back, with haberdashery, a teacup and dried plants in the background
close-up view of finished embroidery hoop back to show the whipstitching all around

 

As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, there are many variations on how to close the back of an embroidery hoop. Instead of gathering stitches, you could use glue, just cardboard or cardstock and no fabric at all, just felt, etc. I don’t like using glue because I find it messier and knowing me I’d probably end up with an ugly glue smear all over my embroidery. I prefer to use needle and thread when I can, but using glue is not “wrong”. It’s certainly quicker! Note that it is harder to stitch over glued fabric. If you glue down your seam allowances instead of gathering them, it becomes harder to sew the back fabric to it if that’s how you wanted to finish the hoop.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful, and I’d love to hear your thoughts! Do you have a different method for backing your hoops? Glue or no glue? If there’s another way to back that you’d like me to cover, I’m very open to suggestions.

 

You Might Also Like:

embroidery success: 10 tips before you begin a project
how to transfer an embroidery pattern
how to start and end embroidery stitches

 

Fondly,

how to back embroidery hoop
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Cozy Sweater: How to Mend With Embroidery

     Anne      2 Comments

“It was November – the month of crimson sunsets, parting birds, deep, sad hymns of the sea, passionate wind-songs in the pines.”

L.M. Montgomery, Anne of Green Gables

 

And with parting birds and sad sea hymns, what better way to stay warm and cozy than with your favourite woollen cardigan and a hot cup of tea? But alas, those pesky moth holes have appeared out of nowhere and your favourite sweater has been relegated to the back of your closet or your ever-growing mending pile.

Perhaps you’re not too sure how to mend the sweater hole or you just haven’t found the motivation to do it. In this week’s post, I will show you a really quick and easy way to mend a knit garment with a little embroidery. The possibilities, as is always the case with embroidery, are pretty much endless. So grab that cozy sweater, and let’s mend it together! You can even skip to the embroidery part if your garment doesn’t need mending but you’d like to add a little decorative stitching to it.

 

cozy sweater embroidery: creative mending

 

I will be patching up one of my favourite cardigans, this sweet blue cashmere vintage piece I thrifted a few years ago. It has indeed been sitting in the mending pile forever, since I bought it at a really low price but sporting several moth holes already. As you can see, there’s a big one on the back that really needs fixing!

 

blue cashmere cardigan hanging on closet handle, seen from the back to show a moth hole near the left sleeve
close-up view of moth hole on cardigan back

 

Since this hole is on the back of the cardigan, I’m able to use an embroidery hoop to keep the tension even. If you want to fix a hole that’s in a more awkward spot, like on a sleeve or the heel of a sock, use a darning egg or mushroom if you have one, or another object that you can slip under the hole to give it a hard surface underneath. I really love the mushroom because it’s easy to hold while you stitch. Etsy has a nice selection of them if you’re interested in getting one!

hand holding a darning mushroom with cardigan in the background
cardigan sleeve wrapped over darning mushroom, hand holding the handle, with embroidery hoop and blue sewing thread in the background on an embroidered table runner
Darning mushroom placed in the sleeve where there is another hole.

 

Mend a Sweater Hole

 

1. We’ll start by flipping the garment to the wrong side and threading a hand-sewing needle with matching sewing thread. This is a time when you really want as close a match to your garment fabric as you can find. I like to double the thread for this, and tie the end with a knot.

close-up view of cardigan hole with threaded needle lying beside it

 

2. Then, we will do a running stitch around the hole, a few millimeters away from the edge. Your needle should be going under and over the knit stitches. Do not pull!

close-up view of needle doing a running stitch around cardigan hole
close-up of cardigan hole with drawn dashed line running around it to demonstrate running stitch

 

3. Once you come back to the point where you started, do the same thing going vertically. Run your needle over and under the knitting to start covering the hole. The running stitch you made in step 2 is a good guideline for where to start and stop your stitches.

close-up view of cardigan hole with vertical dashed lines drawn over it to demonstrate running stitches

 

4. Essentially, you want to bridge the gap caused by the hole and bring the two edges together. Once you’ve done a few vertical rows of running stitches, pull gently to help close the gap. A good 1950’s housewife would probably frown at this because I don’t think you’re actually supposed to pull, but since we’ll be adding embroidery to this, I think it’s fine. 😉 Just don’t pull too hard or the fabric will pucker!

close-up view of cardigan hole with needle going through to cover the hole

 

5. Continue to run vertical rows of running stitches until you get to the end and the hole is hidden!

view of mended cardigan hole

 

6. Usually, you’d now weave rows of running stitches horizontally to really make the hole disappear and strengthen the area, but it won’t be necessary here. (My inner ‘50s housewife is now deeply, deeply frowning). Feel free to do it though, if you don’t want to add embroidery or you want it extra sturdy.

close-up view of covered cardigan hole with dashed horizontal lines drawn across to demonstrate running stitches

 

7. When you’re satisfied with your darning, secure your thread by weaving it among the stitches a few times and looping it into a knot before clipping.

thread looping on itself to form knot to secure it

 

Adding the Embroidery

 

8. We will be embroidering a little lazy-daisy flower right on top of this mended hole, and I like to give myself a few guiding lines for this with a water-soluble pen.

snowflake shape drawn with water-soluble pen over covered hole in preparation for embroidery

 

9. Next, thread an embroidery needle with three strands of white embroidery floss. Anchor the thread by weaving it among the mending stitches and make a lazy-daisy stitch to form a flower petal. Start in the middle of the shape, going outward.

cardigan in embroidery hoop with lazy-daisy stitches being worked over the mended hole

 

10. Continue working lazy-daisy stitches all around to form your flower. Add 3-4 French knots to the center.

lazy-daisy embroidered flower over the mended hole

And now you have a cute little cloud-like flower where there used to be a nasty hole!

 

I repeated these steps anywhere there was a hole on this cardigan (turns out there were a LOT!). The result is that my flowers are quite randomly scattered, but I love it!! You can definitely choose to make it symmetrical if you prefer, and just embroider where there’s no hole. 😊

flat lay showing the embroidered cardigan seen from the front side, laid over an embroidered table runner, with various supplies around the garment; embroidery hoop, small scissors, thread, darning mushroom

 

I hope this was helpful and that it makes darning a little less daunting! It’s always so satisfying to add embroidery everywhere. And even though this is probably not the most “correct” way to mend a sweater, it definitely works and I’m so happy with my cozy cardigan. It feels like a whole new garment!

person seen from neck to hip wearing the blue cardigan, holding a colourful mug

Let me know what you think in the comments! Do you have other methods for mending holes in clothes? Where else would you like to add embroidery? Give me your ideas and I’d love to write a post on it.

 

Fondly,

mend your favourite sweater with embroidery
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10 Easy Steps to Successfully Begin an Embroidery Project

     Anne      5 Comments

Does anyone else get really impatient when it’s time to begin a new embroidery project? I just want to skip all the prep stuff and get stitching already! Unfortunately, not preparing adequately for an embroidery project will too often bring regret later on. It’s the little things that can really make a difference. Fortunately, preparing to begin an embroidery project isn’t as long or as daunting as it may seem. So if you’re like me (the impatient stitcher) or you’re new to the craft, here’s a list of 10 easy steps you can follow and prep before you make your first stitch.

 

10 best tips to begin an embroidery project

 

1. Choosing and Preparing a Pattern

The first logical step to beginning an embroidery project is to decide what you want to embroider. If you’re looking for inspiration, you can start with a quick Pinterest search, follow some talented embroiders on Instagram or browse Etsy for pretty patterns. There are also many books on embroidery that you can find that include patterns. Whether you draw your own pattern or find one you like, take a few moments to think ahead to what you want the final product to be. Will you be leaving the embroidery in the hoop to hang, or are you turning it into something else? What size do you want it to be?

Thinking ahead and having a bit of a plan before you begin your embroidery project can be so helpful and save you from disappointment later. If you bought a pattern, chances are the recommended dimensions will be included in the instructions. You can also scale a pattern using your printer’s settings to resize it however you’d like.

 

2. Fabric

Aaahhh, fabric! I’ve alluded to fabric choice for embroidery in two previous posts already – The Only Embroidery Tools You Need and Different Ways to Transfer an Embroidery Pattern, but it could undoubtedly fill a post all on its own. Generally, when working surface embroidery, you want a nice cotton or linen fabric. There are many different kinds and blends you can get, as well as different weights. If you choose something very light, like most quilting cottons, you can either double the fabric or use some interfacing to make it a bit sturdier. Light and medium weights are usually best suited for embroidery. I would recommend staying away from blends with too many synthetic fabrics in the mix. Hand embroidery is better worked on woven fabrics (as opposed to knits) because it’s much easier to keep the tension even and prevent puckers.

Anything stretchy and knit will be harder to embroider, and although you can definitely do it if you’re embroidering on clothes, I wouldn’t recommend using a stretchy fabric for hoop art or anything like that. Also think about how you will transfer your pattern. Some fabrics/colours are much easier for pattern transferring, so that’s something to keep in mind. Light-coloured fabrics are usually easier to begin with.

 

different fabrics suitable for embroidery; linen, cotton blend, factory cotton, medium weight cotton and light-weight cotton

 

3. Cutting Your Fabric

Before cutting your piece of fabric, I would again suggest taking a bit of time to think ahead to how you want to finish your embroidery. If you’re thinking of leaving it in the hoop, you’ll want to make sure you have enough hoop allowance to close the back when you’re done. I like to leave a good inch allowance all around when I make embroidery hoop art. If you want to finish your project another way, such as by mounting it in a frame, or turning it into a bag, needlebook, journal, or anything else, think about seam allowances and allow yourself enough fabric to work with. I can’t tell you how many times I didn’t leave enough seam allowance and had to resort to all sorts of patchwork to finish the piece! Very frustrating. So before you cut, think twice about how you plan to finish your work!

 

cut piece of fabric for embroidery with wooden placed on top

 

4. Ironing Your Fabric

Ironing the fabric before you begin stitching is such a simple thing, yet it can make so much difference! This is a step I nearly always want to skip because setting up the iron and ironing board always seem like a worse chore than it actually is. It’s done in no time, and really, who would want to embroider on crumpled fabric? Take the time to iron your fabric before you begin your embroidery project, it’s worth it!

 

5. Transferring the Pattern

Once you have a nicely cut and ironed piece of fabric and your pattern ready to go, it’s time to transfer the pattern onto the fabric. That’s also a topic that can cover many blog posts, and luckily I already wrote a full post on it: Different Ways to Transfer an Embroidery Pattern. It covers two different ways of transferring a pattern on light-coloured fabric: using a light source and the reverse transfer method.

 

lavender embroidery pattern transferred onto piece of light fabric

 

6. Using a Hoop

Now comes the time to pop the fabric into the embroidery hoop! I love this step, haha. If you plan on leaving the embroidery in the hoop, pick a size that will nicely fit your pattern. If you don’t plan on framing the embroidery with the hoop, I still recommend choosing a size that fits the pattern so you don’t need to move it as you embroider. When you’re working a big pattern though, you might need to move the hoop as you work each area.

An embroidery hoop is made of two rings: the outer ring, larger, usually has a little screw at the top, and the inner ring is smaller and fits inside the outer ring. Simply loosen the screw and the two rings will separate. Center your fabric over the inner ring, good side up, then place the outer ring over it, securing the fabric in place. Tighten the screw while adjusting the fabric until it is sitting nice and taut. There should be no ripples or puckers.

Some wooden hoops may have slightly uneven rings, which can cause uneven tension. It’s super annoying, and I recommend using another hoop, or binding it with fabric until it’s even. I wrote more about hoops and different kinds/sizes in the post The Only Embroidery Tools You Need.

 

close-up view of embroidery hoop ring with a hand resting on the screw
separated embroidery hoop
fabric placed in the hoop nice and tight, with embroidery floss bobbins beside and stork scissors

7. The Right Needle

For some reason, I always find the idea of finding the “correct” needle somewhat overwhelming…probably because I have too many needles and they’re in such a state of disarray that locating the right one really feels like looking for a needle in a haystack! But it doesn’t have to be that way! If you start by keeping your needles well-organized (in needlebooks, cases, or even small boxes), locating the right one will be so much easier.

As for the “right” one, this will depend on your project. If you start by purchasing a pack of “embroidery” or “crewel” needles, you will be fine for working surface embroidery. There are usually a few different sizes per pack so that you can use a longer or shorter needle if you prefer, or one with a bigger or smaller eye depending on how many strands of floss you like to work with. I like the DMC needles #3-9 for embroidery, which you can find in most craft stores.

 

pack of dmc needles and acorn needlecase with lots of needles spilling out

 

8. Embroidery Floss

This is a bit embarrassing, but when I first started embroidery, I didn’t know that you could separate the floss strands! Stitching small details was a mystery to me. Clearly I missed the part where they tell you that embroidery floss indeed comes in separable strands! The big brands like DMC and Anchor come in skeins of about 8 meters long made of 6 separable strands. While you can definitely choose to embroider with all 6 strands, knowing that they are separable will definitely be helpful 😉. Depending on your project and the style you prefer, you can use only 1 or 2 strands if you like! It’s perfect for working small details, as I finally figured out eventually. If you’re picking out the colours yourself, I recommend pulling out more than you’ll need to try different combinations. This is best done during daylight since thread colours look a little different at night!

 

skein of embroidery floss pulled out a little bit to show separable strands

 

9. Practicing Stitches

Now that you’ve got your pattern transferred to your fabric sitting nicely in the hoop, and a threaded needle ready to go, it’s time to begin stitching at last! The first stitch is the best part of a project (or is it the last?). If you’re unsure how you should begin and end your stitches, I have a full post on it with lots of helpful photos here. As you embroider, whether you’re following a pattern with instructions or following your heart’s desire, don’t hesitate to stop and practice a stitch if you need to. Ripping stitches out of a main project is sometimes necessary, but a great tip to avoid this is to practice something on a piece of scrap fabric first. If you get to a stitch that you don’t know how to do, or you feel like trying something new, practice first! You can have a look at the following tutorials if you need help with any of these stitches:

 

5 embroidery stitches to learn as a beginners
Straight stitch, running stitch, backstitch, splitstitch, stem stitch
the chain stitch easy tutorial
Includes the lazy-daisy stitch
the french knot easy tutorial
embroidery tutorial satin stitch

10. Personalize!

My last tip to successfully begin an embroidery project is to not be afraid to add your own personal touch! Change up the colour palette, use different stitches, add a quote or a touch of ribbon, and use materials you already have to really make the piece your own. I like to use some ribbon, lace, beads, and other bits and pieces in my projects, and it’s an excellent way of really making it unique. Even if you’re a complete beginner, don’t feel “bound” to pattern instructions. Follow the basics of embroidery, yes, but don’t be afraid to personalize. It’s immensely satisfying, and really opens the door to creativity.

 

embroidered lavender pattern stitched in two different ways with different colours, one of them in a frame, and a little sprig of dried lavender in between the two pieces
My “Lavande” pattern embroidered with different colours. You can shop this pattern here!

 

I hope these 10 easy tips will help you seamlessly begin your next embroidery project! Whether you’re following someone else’s pattern with instructions or making up your own, taking the time to go through all these little steps before stitching will make a difference. I even like to jot down notes as I embroider (things like what colours I’m using, modifications to the pattern, etc) so I can refer to them later. Happy embroidering my friend, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or comments! I’d love to help.

 

Fondly,

embroidery success: 10 easy tips to begin an embroidery project
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Super Cute Hexie Flowers: Easy English Paper Piecing Project

     Anne

Hello dear friend, I have a really fun post for you this week! I’m going to show you how to make a super cute hexie flower with the easy English paper piecing method.

 

how to stitch a hexie flower with english paper piecing

 

What is English Paper Piecing (EPP)?

English Paper Piecing (or EPP) is a way to create and assemble various shapes using fabric and paper. Often done entirely by hand, EPP allows you to arrange shapes one by one to create different designs. The method is often used for quilting, but the possibilities with EPP crafts are nearly endless. The most famous shape to make is the hexagon, and that’s what we’ll be working with today!

I discovered EPP earlier this year and instantly loved it. It’s absolutely perfect for using pretty fabric scraps and the hand-stitching involved is simple and relaxing. I was utterly amazed at how neat and pretty seams look when joined with EPP! So much less aggravating than trying to sew tiny pieces of fabric at the sewing machine. (I do have to say that the sewing machine and I don’t get along very well when I try to sew small things.)

 

finished hexie flowers and basted hexagons, as well as a pile of square fabric scraps, snips, and pins

 

If you follow me over on Instagram, you might have seen that I’ve been making a new hexie flower in EPP style each month. I love embroidering Mollie Johanson’s designs (which you can find on her blog Wild Olive, and also on her Etsy shop) and she’s been releasing the cutest little house patterns every month. Those patterns are completely free to download, and she even offers matching wallpapers and a cross-stitch chart for free as well!

It’s been tons of fun to turn these adorable houses into hexie flowers every month, so today I’m going to share my process with you! I will be turning the October Corn Shock House pattern into a decorative hexie flower. EPP is very addictive though, be warned, and so are Mollie’s patterns!

 

Materials to Make Your Hexie Flower

 

materials needed for epp hexie flower: fabric, embroidery, various scissors, cardstock paper, pencil and ruler
  • Wild Olive Kawaii Crossing embroidery pattern (I linked the one for October, which is the one I’m using for this tutorial, but feel free to use any other one! Her website is full of them.)
  • Embroidery floss (DMC colours are listed on each Kawaii Crossing pattern)
  • Scrap fabric in white/off-white colour for the embroidery
  • Small embroidery hoop (3”)
  • Needles: 1 embroidery needle, 1 hand-sewing needle
  • Pins
  • Scissors: embroidery snips, sewing shears, and paper scissors
  • Cardstock paper (enough to cut 7 hexagons 1 ¼” long)
  • A pencil and ruler
  • Fabric scraps to match your embroidery (I like to use 2 different fabrics)
  • Sewing thread to match your fabric

Optional: A piece of felt for backing

 

The Embroidery

 

1. First, let’s print the pattern! When you download the Kawaii Crossing house pattern of your choice, you will notice that they include 3 pages. We only need the first page since we are making a really small embroidery. Scale the page to 75% using your printer’s settings and print.

2. Transfer the pattern onto a piece of off-white fabric (I normally use scraps of cotton muslin). If you’re not sure how to transfer the pattern, you can check out this post.

3. Embroider the pattern following the DMC recommendations, or change up some colours to suit your fabric choice. For this October pattern for example, I made the scarecrow orange instead of the original purple. I like to embroider these patterns with the satin stitch as much as possible, and add the little details with straight stitches, or a backstitch. To see how to embroider the faces, Mollie put out a really helpful YouTube tutorial on how to do it!

embroidered October corn shack house design onto cotton muslin scrap fabric

 

Preparing the Hexagons

 

Next, we will cut out some cardstock to make our hexagons. I like to use 1 ¼” size hexagons (2.8″ wide). You can use a template to trace these out or make your own with graph paper.

4. Trace and cut out 7 hexagons for one hexie flower (I’m making more here in preparation for my next project).

sheet of cardstock paper with hexagon shapes traced on it, ruler, pencil and scissors laying beside it, and a few hexagons already cut

 

5. Gather up your pretty fabrics, and turning them to the wrong side, pin the hexagon shapes in place. Make sure they are centered however you want if using patterned fabric. Cut around the hexagon, leaving a good ¼” seam allowance. I like to use 2 different fabrics to make 3 hexagons of each. Since the shapes are big enough, I prefer to use pins to hold the paper onto the fabric and avoid using glue, but there’s a glue pen you can use for EPP if you find that easier.

a cut fabric hexagon held in place with pin to cardstock hexagon shape

 

6. Do the same with your piece of embroidery. Center a cardstock hexagon on the wrong side of the fabric, and pin in place. This one usually takes a bit more fiddling to get well-centered. Cut around the hexagon with a ¼” SA. Don’t take the pins out yet!

embroidery piece cut into hexie shape held to cardstock shape with pin

 

You should now have 7 cut out hexagons looking like this:

7 cut hexagons in fabric held to cardstock with pin

 

7. The next step is to baste each hexagon around its cardstock shape. Working from the wrong side (cardstock facing you), fold down one side of the hexagon’s seam allowance around the cardstock. Hold it in place with one hand while you fold the next side to create a nice sharp corner.

hexie being held up with one side of the seam allowance folded towards the cardstock
hexie being held up with seam allowance folded on two sides to create folded corner

 

8. Thread a hand-sewing needle with matching thread and stitch this corner in place, going through the fabric only. I usually take 2-3 small stitches just to anchor the fold in place.

needle going through the fold at hexie corner to stitch it in place

 

9. Once your corner is secure, drag your thread to the next corner and fold the seam allowances in the same way. Stitch in place, again just taking 2-3 stitches to secure the fold. Continue this way until all the seam allowances are folded and secured to the wrong side. Remove the pin.

view of basted corner & sides of the hexagon
fully basted hexagon

 

10. Repeat these steps for the remaining hexagons, until you have 7 happy little hexies looking like this:

7 basted hexies seen from the good side of the fabric

 

Making the Hexie Flower

 

Now we are ready to assemble our hexagons into a flower shape!

The embroidered hexagon will be the center, and then you can arrange the remaining ones in the order that you prefer. I like to alternate between my two different colours.

hexagons arranged to form hexie flower shape

 

11. To assemble them together, I like to start by attaching the top hexagon to the center one. Place them good side together and grab your needle and thread. This is where the really fun part comes in! Instead of sewing along one side with a seam allowance, you will sew the hexagons by whipstitching them together at the very edge.

top hexie and center hexie will be attached together

 

12. Start at one corner and anchor your thread (use a knot if you like), then run a whipstitch along the edge, again going only through the fabric. You should be going through the fold on either side without catching the cardstock. The whipstitch is my favourite stitch for this, but you could also use the ladder stitch or the slipstitch.

two hexies held good sides together, needle going through the folds along one edge with a whipstitch

 

Unfold the two hexies and tada, they’re attached and the stitching is barely visible! (I’m using white thread for all my hexagons because I’ve used the same thread for all the hexie flowers in this collection, but I do recommend using matching thread).

the two hexagons seen from the good side, sewn together along one edge

 

I find this method of handstitching so much more calming and easier than the traditional way! The cardstock makes everything nice and sturdy, the stitches run smoothly and aaaahhh it just looks so neat! It’s longer than machine-sewing, but it’s so pleasant to do.

 

13. Attach the remaining 5 hexagons to the center one in the same way, good sides together, stitching along the edge through the fabric folds.

hexie flower with arrows around center hexie to show which edges to sew
close-up view of hexie center attached to the 6 sides hexies

 

14. Then, all we have to do is attach the remaining hexagon sides.

hexie flower showing directions of edges to sew with arrows

 

To do this, you will have to fold your hexie flower a little, and pinch the corner closest to the center to be able to get your two hexies good sides together.

hexie flower folded along one edge to hold to hexies against each other

 

And that’s it! You just made a hexie flower! 😊 It might need a little pressing after all that folding to get it nice and flat.

finished hexie flower with stork embroidery scissors and pile of square scrap fabric held with piece of cord

 

Since I’ve been making these just for myself as wall decorations, I leave the back unfinished and I also leave the cardstock paper in for some extra sturdiness. If you want to use your hexie flower on a quilt or as an appliqué on something else, you can remove each piece of cardstock and it will keep its shape! If you also want to use it as a decoration but would prefer to finish the back, I recommend cutting out a piece of felt of the same size and shape, and whipstiching it all around. That way the back is all nice and neat, and felt doesn’t fray so you don’t need to worry about enclosing seams or leaving seam allowance.

I sincerely hope that you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and that you’ll want to give EPP and hexie-flower making a try! It’s been so therapeutic to do this year and I’ve been really excited to share the many joys of it with you all.

Happy English Paper Piecing!

 

Fondly,

how to make fabric hexagons english paper piecing basics
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Learn the Satin Stitch: Embroidery Tutorial

     Anne      2 Comments

Welcome to another hand embroidery stitch tutorial! Today, we will be looking at the satin stitch, one of the most popular stitches used in hand embroidery. If you’re new to hand embroidery, this is definitely a great stitch to learn and start practicing!

 

satin stitch embroidery tutorial

 

To begin, you will need basic embroidery supplies: a piece of fabric (just a scrap is perfect for practicing), embroidery scissors, embroidery needle, hoop, and some floss of your choice. I will be using 3 strands of DMC #741 for this tutorial.

If you’d like more information on basic embroidery supplies, you can have a look at this post.

Once your fabric is sitting drum tight in the hoop and your needle is loaded, you will be ready to begin. The satin stitch is a filling stitch, intended to fully cover various shapes. I highly recommend starting with an easy one, like a square or a rectangle.

You will definitely want to draw this shape on the fabric to give you some guidelines. Use a pencil or water-soluble pen (or other marking tool if you prefer). I will be filling in a rectangle, which I drew on my fabric in pencil. I’m using 3 strands here, but you can use as many or as few as you want. The more strands you use, the “chunkier” it will look and the fewer strands you use, the more blended it will look. Keep in mind that using more strands makes it a bit harder for the stitches to lay very flat since the strands tend to twist on themselves. Using few threads takes longer to fill, but we’re in no rush!

 

rectangle shape drawn in pencil over fabric sitting in embroidery hoop

To secure your thread, you can use a knot if you’re just practicing. If you’re working on a project, you might want to start with anchoring stitches or a waste knot instead. I wrote a full post on how to begin & end your stitches if you need extra help.

 

Satin Stitch Tutorial

Normally with the satin stitch, you want to begin in the middle of your shape (with a square or a rectangle that doesn’t matter as much since the shape is the same all around). This is because it’s a stitch that closely follows the shape you’re filling and it’s often easier to begin in the middle than at the edge.

 

  1. Bring your needle up from the back at point A and go back down in B, forming a straight stitch. You can choose to work horizontally or vertically depending on what you prefer and the shape that you’re filling.
straight stitch going from point A to B to form the first satin stitch to fill rectangle

 

2. Choose to fill either the left or right side first. Here, I will be doing the left. Bring your needle up again at point C, directly beside point A, and go back down in D. You should now have two straight stitches laying side by side.

second stitch being made beside the first; point C directly beside point A and point D beside point B
second stitch laying flat beside the first to begin row of satin stitch

3. Continue in the same way until half of the shape is fully covered. Stitches should be nice and tight, one directly beside each other without overlapping or splitting, following the shape you’re filling. With a rectangle, each stitch should be exactly the same length, starting and ending right beside each other. Be careful not to pull too hard, or it will distort the shape. The stitches should just be laying on the fabric, tight against each other but not tightly pulled. You will definitely want your fabric held taught in the hoop.

half of the rectangle filled with satin stitch

 

Ideally, you also always want to work each stitch in the same direction. I prefer to work this stitch vertically from bottom to top, so I always start each stitch at the bottom edge and work upwards. But you can do the opposite, or work horizontally from left to right or vice versa. Sometimes it will also depend on what kind of shape you’re working with.

 

4. Once the first half is done, you can secure your thread and cut it to start anew, or simply drag it behind the stitches you’ve already lain to fill the other half.

Fill the second half just as you’ve done the first, working in the same direction!

rectangle completely filled with satin stitch

 

Filling a Shape With an Outline

Filling stitches often benefit from having the shape stitched with an outline first. Here I drew a crescent shape onto my fabric and outlined it with a splitstitch.

crescent moon shape outlined in splitstitch

This will help to give me a nicer edge, especially at the points. Each stitch begins and ends right outside of this splitstitch edge, covering it entirely.

 

Another thing I like to do that I find really helpful, is to place guiding stitches along the way and fill small areas at a time. In other words, I place stitches to split the area in smaller and smaller halves, and then fill them in. This is especially helpful to keep a shape like a crescent.

crescent shape being filled with satin stitch and guiding stitches to fill small areas at a time

 

When you get to the small points, take your time to make very small stitches that are still straight and flat.

crescent moon filled with satin stitch

 

Satin Stitch Pumpkin

While I was preparing this tutorial, I started embroidering a little pumpkin in this style and found it was a really great shape for practicing the satin stitch. I’ve been seeing a lot of them all over my Instagram and they’re really cute, though not exactly my normal stitching style. I tend to favour just an outline or the long & short stitch for filling my designs, but I decided to give this look a try and rather like the result! I couldn’t leave it at just the satin stitch though, so I added a backstitch outline all around it to give it more dimension (and hide my uneven satin stitch hahahaha!!). This outline was added after the satin stitch filling. I outlined the pumpkin with splitstitch first, then satin stitched to cover that outline. The backstitch was added last, as a finishing touch.

embroidered pumpkin in satin stitch and backstitch outline
embroidered pumpkin in satin stitch view from side

Here is the mini-pattern I used, if you fancy practicing your satin stitch and you’re still in the mood for some fall stitching! I’m terrible at drawing anything directly on fabric and like a good pattern for everything, so here’s this sweet pumpkin I made:

pumpkin outline for satin stitch practice

Feel free to print it if you want to use it, and let’s see that satin stitch! 😊

 

I hope you found this tutorial helpful, and as always don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions!

Fondly,

learn how to do the satin stitch
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