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Embroidery Basics

Getting Started With the Long & Short Stitch

     Anne      3 Comments

Hello, it’s been a while! I haven’t been blogging as much lately because I’ve been working on something new, but today I happily bring you a new stitch tutorial: the famous long & short stitch! I say “happily”, but if I’m honest I dreaded making a tutorial for this one. It’s such a beautiful stitch, but it’s a harder one to master. Doing it justice in tutorial photos was harder than I expected, and I had to shoot the whole thing twice. πŸ˜‰ Nevertheless, here we are, so if you’re ready to take your embroidery skills to the next level, let’s dive in!

 

long & short stitch embroidery tutorial

 

The long & short stitch is a fill stitch, used in the wonderful technique called “needle-painting”, also called “silk shading”, or “art needlework”. As the first name suggests, using this stitch feels like painting with a needle and thread. Best worked with only 1 strand of floss (cotton or silk), stitches get impeccably blended together to create realistic designs. You’ll often see animals, flowers, and other botanical subjects worked with this technique. For today, I’ve prepared a little flower petal to show you how to get started with the long & short stitch.

 

Long & Short Stitch Tutorial

1. First, you’ll want to thread a fine hand embroidery needle (size 9-12) ideally with 1 strand of floss. I’m using 6-stranded DMC cotton floss, and you can use more strands if you like, but the blending will be less smooth. Depending on the look you’re going for though, it might work very well. But if you’re hoping to get a really fine, paint-like blend, I recommend 1 strand only. It takes more time, but it’s worth it. You’ll want to pick at least 3 different colours that will blend together well. Use variations of the same tone if you want to create a shading effect. I’ll be using 3 different pink tones, going from light to dark.

 

2. Next, you’ll want to draw a shape to be filled. I just made a petal shape, and divided it into 3 sections, since I’ll be using 3 different colours to fill it. I highly recommend adding pencil guidelines to divide your shape, especially if you’re new to this technique.

petal shape drawn in pencil on white fabric

 

3. The next step is to outline the shape with an outline stitch, such as the stem stitch or split stitch. I’m using the stem stitch here, with 1 strand of DMC #778, the dominant colour for this petal. When you outline, choose one of the lighter colours you’ll be working with, to make sure it won’t be visible once the shape is all filled.

petal outlined in stem stitch

 

4. Thread your needle with the colour you’d like to use in the first row. I’m using DMC #225. Bring your needle up from the back right outside the outlined edge at the top of the petal, in the middle. Come back down to end your stitch in the second section. Work another stitch in the same way, a little shorter or a little longer, towards the right or left. Before you start making the stitches very close together, you want to leave space between them to create guideline stitches. This is to help with the stitch direction and makes it easier to fill the shape accurately. Work more stitches in this way until the first section has enough guidelines both on the left and the right side.

stitch guidelines added to the petal

 

5. Now, we can actually fill the first row! The idea is to fill the first section completely by adding “long” and “short” stitches very closely together between the guidelines stitches. I like to work from right to left. Always start your stitches just outside the outlined edge, and down into the second row. Vary their length, ending the shorter ones just at the pencil guideline, and letting the longer ones go as far as 2/3 of the way down into the second row.

first row starting from right to left
needle going down to fill first row

6. Continue in this way until the first row is filled, making your stitches very close to each other.

a third of the first row filled
first row almost filled with long & short stitches
first row filled with long & short stitches

 

7. To fill the second row, thread your needle with a different colour – I’m using #778, a slightly darker pink than #225. Come up from behind through the first row, right about where your pencil guideline was.

needle coming up through first row

 

8. I like to start in the middle, and work a few guidelines towards the right before I start filling.

long & short stitches to fill second row

 

9. Keep filling the second row, just as you did the first. Use guideline stitches if you need (stitches that you place ahead of time to help with direction). Always come up through the previous layer, not down into it. It gives it a much smoother effect!

second row almost filled with long & short stitches
second row filled

 

10. To fill the last row, thread your needle with another colour (#316), and fill it much like you did the second row. Only this time, your stitches will end right outside the outlined edge.

needle going down just outside the outlined edge to stitch the last row

 

11. And that’s it, you’re done!!

petal completely filled with long & short stitch

 

A Few Notes:

  • As I said earlier, this stitch takes a lot of practice! Don’t get discouraged if it doesn’t work too well the first time. It’s normal! It took me years of on and off practice to get comfortable with it, and even still it’s not always perfect. ^_^ It’s just how this stitch is, it requires a lot of patience and precision. But you got this, don’t worry!
  • There are so many different ways to shade, and so many directions you can go with this stitch! Depending on what you’re trying to fill, you might not need such precise rows, or you might need to work diagonally, or use more or less colours. You can shade from dark to light, light to dark, or really any combination that works for your design. The main takeaway with this stitch is that it’s smoother when worked with 1 strand, and you always want to come up through previous rows (or stitches), rather than down into them.
  • If you’re serious about needle-painting, I highly suggest you consult Trish Burr’s amazing work and resources. I already recommended one of her books in a previous post here, and she also has a wonderful website where you can buy her patterns and read her blog: Trish Burr Embroidery Blog. She’s really the expert of long & short stitch, and her designs are stunning.
  • Anything by the Royal School of Needlework is also fantastic, they have a few really great books on silk shading, and they offer acclaimed classes and workshops.
  • Lastly, just remember to have fun with it, and don’t be afraid to experiment!

 

Here’s the pinnable tutorial if you want to save it:

 

how to do the long & short stitch

 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it was helpful! Don’t hesitate to reach out if you need some help. I promise you this stitch is so worth it, and opens up wonderful possibilities. Happy stitching my friend!

Fondly,

Scallop Stitch: Very Easy Embroidery Tutorial

     Anne      Leave a Comment

Hello and welcome to another very easy stitch tutorial! Today we will look at the scallop stitch, which is a variation of the fly stitch. I realize that I haven’t yet posted a tutorial on the fly stitch, and that’s because I never really use it! I prefer the scallop stitch, which is basically a curvier version of a detached fly stitch. I often use it for small details in my embroidery, worked with only 1 or 2 strands of floss.

 

scallop stitch embroidery tutorial

 

For example, if you’re here following my Tea Party Mini-Quilt stitch-along and you received the February Sweet Cherries pattern, you might have noticed that the scallop stitch was used for small details on the cherries. The scallop stitch, although really easy, is not a stitch I had heard much about when I first started to embroider, so I thought I would post a tutorial on how to do it. If you already know how to do lazy-daisy (detached chain), then you’ll have no problems at all with this one!

 

Scallop Stitch Tutorial

1. Bring your threaded needle (I’m using 2 strands for the tutorial) up from the back at point A, and back down again at point B. Don’t pull all the way through. The distance from A to B will be the length of your finished stitch.

needle going down from A to B

 

2. Start pulling the thread, until a small loop is left. Hold it down with a finger while you bring the needle up from the back at point C. Point C should be half-way across A and B, but slightly lower. The idea here is to create more of a curved line as opposed to the “V” shape of the fly stitch. So to do that, you don’t want point C to be too low. It’s the position of C that will determine how much or how little your line will curve.

needle coming back up between A and B at point C

 

3. Pull the needle all the way through, allowing the loop to rest against the working thread coming from point C. Bring the working thread over the loop, which should now be laying in a curved line from A to B.

thread being pulled all the way from point C to create curved line

 

4. Finally, anchor the curve in place with a very small stitch from C to D. Point D will be directly below point C, forming a very small straight stitch. This is the same way you would finish a lazy-daisy stitch.

needle going down in D to anchor scallop stitch

 

And that’s it!

finished scallop stitch laying nicely on the fabric

 

Repeat as many times as desired. Grouped together it looks like a flight of birds!

several scallop stitched grouped together

 

Here’s the pinnable step-by-step tutorial if you wish to save it for later.

scallop stitch tutorial

I hope this tutorial was helpful and that you enjoy giving the scallop stitch a go if you haven’t already! It’s such a handy stitch for little details. If you’d like to participate in the Tea Party Mini-Quilt stitch along, I send you a free mini-embroidery pattern each month this year as part of my newsletter! You can subscribe right here. We are turning the embroideries into little hexies to make an EPP mini-quilt at the end of the year. πŸ™‚

 

Check out these posts for more info & tutorials on EPP:

english paper piecing: how to cut and baste shapes
stitching a hexie flower english paper piecing
mini-quilt project: epp & embroidery

Have a lovely week my dear readers, and happy stitching!

 

Fondly,

Very Easy Tutorial: Leaf Stitch

     Anne      1 Comment

Hello and welcome to another stitch tutorial! This time, it’s another of my favourite ones: the leaf stitch. There are so many ways to stitch leaves, but the leaf stitch is definitely one of the easiest. Essentially made up only of straight stitches, it’s a quick and accurate way to embroider a leaf.

 

very easy leaf stitch tutorial

 

The leaf stitch is very similar to the fishbone stitch in appearance, and to the satin stitch in technique. I find it even easier than either of those though, particularly for embroidering very small leaves. It’s also a very easy stitch for beginners to learn.

 

Leaf Stitch Tutorial

1. You can draw a leaf outline on your fabric if you wish, or simply free-hand it. Not all stitches are easy to free-hand and keep straight and neat, but this one can work.

leaf outline traced in pencil on white fabric

 

2. Bring your threaded needle up from the back at point A, the very tip of the leaf. I’m using 2 strands of moss green floss. Go back down at point B in the middle of the leaf, forming a straight stitch. This first stitch is usually quite short, only a few millimeters.

first stitch going from A on top of the leaf, to B in the middle of the leaf, forming a straight stitch

 

3. Bring your needle up again at point C, just below point A along the leaf’s outline. Go back down again at point D, forming a second straight stitch that ends just below point B, along the middle (this will form the leaf’s midrib – the middle vein). This stitch should lie on a slight diagonal angle.

second stitch from C to D right beside first A-B stitch

 

4. Continue to repeat this step until one half of the leaf is complete. Your stitches will get longer and more angled around the middle of the leaf, then get gradually shorter again. Always end them right along the midrib. You can start a few stitches just outside the outline if you wish to create a jagged edge.

needle going down at an angle to form the next straight stitch to fill the leaf
one half of the leaf stitched in straight stitches at an angle going towards the middle

 

5. Then, do exactly the same thing to fill the other half. If your leaf is quite big, I recommend snipping off the thread and starting again at the top instead of dragging it across.

needle coming back up at the top of the leaf to fill the second half

Ta-da! A cute little leaf!

finished embroidered leaf in embroidery hoop with needle threaded through the fabric above the leaf

To add more depth, you can use a different thread colour and run straight stitches along the middle and towards the outer edges to create the veins. I like to do this with 1 strand of a darker shade.

 

And that’s it friends, as promised this one is a very simple stitch, but one that looks so good! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and here’s the pinnable image if you wish to save it:

how to do the leaf stitch
Pin to save for later!

 

You Might Also Like:

I have other stitch tutorials you might be interested in! They can all be found in the Stitch Library on the main page’s menu.

5 embroidery stitches to learn as a beginners
the french knot easy tutorial
embroidery tutorial satin stitch

I’ve also been posting short Reel tutorial videos over on Instagram, if you’d like to see the stitch done that way.

Until next time!

 

Fondly,

3 Easy Ways to Transfer a Pattern Onto Dark Fabric

     Anne      2 Comments

Transferring the embroidery pattern onto fabric is probably my least favourite part of the whole embroidery process…and when it has to be done on dark fabric, it’s even worse! Luckily, there are many tools out there to make this process easier. Embroidery on dark fabric can really look stunning, so don’t be discouraged by this part of the process! I’ll show 3 easy ways to successfully transfer your pattern on a dark fabric.

flatlay showing a piece of dark blue fabric, an owl embroidery paper pattern, transfer paper, and an embroidery hoop

 

How do you transfer a pattern on dark fabric?

There are a few different methods and marking tools that you can try for transferring an embroidery pattern onto dark fabric. The best method will depend on the fabric type and weight, and how detailed your pattern is.

In this post, I will show you 3 different ways to successfully transfer a pattern onto dark fabric, using different fabrics and patterns. I will touch on the following materials:

  • Carbon and Transfer Paper
  • Chalk
  • Light Source
  • Dressmaker’s pencil
  • White gel pen
  • Steel-Ball Stylus
  • Ballpoint pen

 

1. Transfer Your Pattern With Carbon or Transfer Paper

This is probably my favourite method for dark fabric. It’s also probably the easiest, if you can find good carbon paper, or transfer paper. Carbon paper has a waxy side and the transferred lines aren’t as easy to erase. Transfer paper, on the other hand, is cleaner and the lines are easy to remove. I’ve been using the wax-free DMC Transfer Paper made for embroidery, and really like it (you can find it on the DMC website). It comes in different colours, so you can choose a colour that will be visible on dark fabric, like this yellow. The marks easily rub off with a cloth, or even just with your finger. This is a bit of a downside since it means they don’t last very long, but there are solutions!

carbon paper shown on waxy yellow side

 

To transfer the pattern, start by placing the carbon/transfer paper colour side down against your fabric, and then tape your pattern over it.

owl embroidery pattern taped to carbon paper, face down on dark blue fabric, with a pencil and stylus laying beside

 

Using a ballpoint pen or a steel-ball stylus, go over all the pattern lines, applying a good amount of pressure to transfer them. I like the stylus a lot since it’s β€œcleaner” than the pen, but the latter works really well too.

close-up view of owl pattern lines gone over with steel-ball stylus

 

Peel back all the layers, and your pattern is transferred!

transferred owl pattern on dark blue fabric

You will notice that the transferred lines, although visible, are a bit pale…And as soon as I pick up the hoop to stitch, they become even harder to see. As I mentioned earlier, the marks also rub off very easily. So, I would definitely recommend having a dressmaker’s pencil or white gelly roll pen at hand to go over the lines. The branch details on this particular pattern definitely needed a little help!

 

Different Marking Tools

I really like the white gel pen, but be mindful that the marks are really hard to remove. The dressmaker’s chalk pen is a better option if you think you’ll want to erase any lines later. Also, the gel pen doesn’t roll easily depending on your fabric choice. I used a dark blue linen fabric that is a bit loosely weaved for this transfer, and had a bit of trouble getting the pen to glide. Since the pattern isn’t too detailed though, it works just fine for what I needed.

close-up of the embroidery project in the hoop, showing tree lines drawn in white gel pen and an embroidered moon

*The products I’ve linked are not affiliate links, just genuine recommendations of tools I enjoy using.

 

2. Transferring a Pattern With Chalk

A quick alternative to the carbon or transfer paper if you don’t have any is to use some chalk instead. Print or create a reverse version of your pattern, and go over it with chalk. I’m using a piece of white tailor’s chalk (used for marking fabric), and going over the pattern lines very generously. This doesn’t have to be precise, you just want to make sure to go over all the lines. I’m using a thicker, dark purple cotton for the fabric.

reverse bird pattern on paper against dark purple fabric, a piece of tailor's chalk and an embroidery hoop
Bird pattern is a free download by Diana Vingert

 

Place your pattern reverse side down against the fabric, and go over it again with a pencil or stylus. You don’t need to apply as much pressure as with the transfer paper since there’s one less layer.

transferred bird pattern on dark purple fabric, with stylus and white gel pen beside it

 

Pattern transferred! Again though, the lines are rather pale, so I suggest going over it with the gel pen.

bird pattern traced over with white gel pen, framed by the embroidery hoop over the fabric
The fabric is more closely woven than the previous one, making it really easy to trace with the gel pen.

 

3. Transfer your Pattern With a Light Source

I’ve covered how to transfer a pattern using a window or a lightbox before in this post, and you can do exactly the same thing if your dark fabric is lightweight and transparent enough. The green cotton I’m using here worked really well with a window, since it’s see-through enough. The sun was really strong that day and I could see my pattern lines clearly, although it doesn’t show in the picture.

 

All you need to do is tape your pattern to a window or light box, and then tape your fabric over it. Transfer the pattern with the gelly roll pen or dressmaker’s pencil (or any other marking tool you can see on dark fabric), and you’re done! The dressmaker’s pencil worked better with this fabric type here.

paper pattern and dark green fabric taped over a sunny window in winter
sunflower paper pattern next to transferred image in white chalk on green fabric

Embroidery on dark fabric is certainly a little trickier to prep and a little harder on the eyes to work with, but it’s definitely worth it. I hope you found this post helpful and that you will be inspired to stitch something on dark fabric now that you know how to easily transfer your pattern!

 

You Might Also Like:

how to transfer an embroidery pattern
embroidery success: 10 tips before you begin a project
embroidery books - recommendation for beginners

Fondly,

3 ways to transfer a pattern on dark fabric
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10 Easy Steps to Successfully Begin an Embroidery Project

     Anne      5 Comments

Does anyone else get really impatient when it’s time to begin a new embroidery project? I just want to skip all the prep stuff and get stitching already! Unfortunately, not preparing adequately for an embroidery project will too often bring regret later on. It’s the little things that can really make a difference. Fortunately, preparing to begin an embroidery project isn’t as long or as daunting as it may seem. So if you’re like me (the impatient stitcher) or you’re new to the craft, here’s a list of 10 easy steps you can follow and prep before you make your first stitch.

 

10 best tips to begin an embroidery project

 

1. Choosing and Preparing a Pattern

The first logical step to beginning an embroidery project is to decide what you want to embroider. If you’re looking for inspiration, you can start with a quick Pinterest search, follow some talented embroiders on Instagram or browse Etsy for pretty patterns. There are also many books on embroidery that you can find that include patterns. Whether you draw your own pattern or find one you like, take a few moments to think ahead to what you want the final product to be. Will you be leaving the embroidery in the hoop to hang, or are you turning it into something else? What size do you want it to be?

Thinking ahead and having a bit of a plan before you begin your embroidery project can be so helpful and save you from disappointment later. If you bought a pattern, chances are the recommended dimensions will be included in the instructions. You can also scale a pattern using your printer’s settings to resize it however you’d like.

 

2. Fabric

Aaahhh, fabric! I’ve alluded to fabric choice for embroidery in two previous posts already – The Only Embroidery Tools You Need and Different Ways to Transfer an Embroidery Pattern, but it could undoubtedly fill a post all on its own. Generally, when working surface embroidery, you want a nice cotton or linen fabric. There are many different kinds and blends you can get, as well as different weights. If you choose something very light, like most quilting cottons, you can either double the fabric or use some interfacing to make it a bit sturdier. Light and medium weights are usually best suited for embroidery. I would recommend staying away from blends with too many synthetic fabrics in the mix. Hand embroidery is better worked on woven fabrics (as opposed to knits) because it’s much easier to keep the tension even and prevent puckers.

Anything stretchy and knit will be harder to embroider, and although you can definitely do it if you’re embroidering on clothes, I wouldn’t recommend using a stretchy fabric for hoop art or anything like that. Also think about how you will transfer your pattern. Some fabrics/colours are much easier for pattern transferring, so that’s something to keep in mind. Light-coloured fabrics are usually easier to begin with.

 

different fabrics suitable for embroidery; linen, cotton blend, factory cotton, medium weight cotton and light-weight cotton

 

3. Cutting Your Fabric

Before cutting your piece of fabric, I would again suggest taking a bit of time to think ahead to how you want to finish your embroidery. If you’re thinking of leaving it in the hoop, you’ll want to make sure you have enough hoop allowance to close the back when you’re done. I like to leave a good inch allowance all around when I make embroidery hoop art. If you want to finish your project another way, such as by mounting it in a frame, or turning it into a bag, needlebook, journal, or anything else, think about seam allowances and allow yourself enough fabric to work with. I can’t tell you how many times I didn’t leave enough seam allowance and had to resort to all sorts of patchwork to finish the piece! Very frustrating. So before you cut, think twice about how you plan to finish your work!

 

cut piece of fabric for embroidery with wooden placed on top

 

4. Ironing Your Fabric

Ironing the fabric before you begin stitching is such a simple thing, yet it can make so much difference! This is a step I nearly always want to skip because setting up the iron and ironing board always seem like a worse chore than it actually is. It’s done in no time, and really, who would want to embroider on crumpled fabric? Take the time to iron your fabric before you begin your embroidery project, it’s worth it!

 

5. Transferring the Pattern

Once you have a nicely cut and ironed piece of fabric and your pattern ready to go, it’s time to transfer the pattern onto the fabric. That’s also a topic that can cover many blog posts, and luckily I already wrote a full post on it: Different Ways to Transfer an Embroidery Pattern. It covers two different ways of transferring a pattern on light-coloured fabric: using a light source and the reverse transfer method.

 

lavender embroidery pattern transferred onto piece of light fabric

 

6. Using a Hoop

Now comes the time to pop the fabric into the embroidery hoop! I love this step, haha. If you plan on leaving the embroidery in the hoop, pick a size that will nicely fit your pattern. If you don’t plan on framing the embroidery with the hoop, I still recommend choosing a size that fits the pattern so you don’t need to move it as you embroider. When you’re working a big pattern though, you might need to move the hoop as you work each area.

An embroidery hoop is made of two rings: the outer ring, larger, usually has a little screw at the top, and the inner ring is smaller and fits inside the outer ring. Simply loosen the screw and the two rings will separate. Center your fabric over the inner ring, good side up, then place the outer ring over it, securing the fabric in place. Tighten the screw while adjusting the fabric until it is sitting nice and taut. There should be no ripples or puckers.

Some wooden hoops may have slightly uneven rings, which can cause uneven tension. It’s super annoying, and I recommend using another hoop, or binding it with fabric until it’s even. I wrote more about hoops and different kinds/sizes in the post The Only Embroidery Tools You Need.

 

close-up view of embroidery hoop ring with a hand resting on the screw
separated embroidery hoop
fabric placed in the hoop nice and tight, with embroidery floss bobbins beside and stork scissors

7. The Right Needle

For some reason, I always find the idea of finding the β€œcorrect” needle somewhat overwhelming…probably because I have too many needles and they’re in such a state of disarray that locating the right one really feels like looking for a needle in a haystack! But it doesn’t have to be that way! If you start by keeping your needles well-organized (in needlebooks, cases, or even small boxes), locating the right one will be so much easier.

As for the β€œright” one, this will depend on your project. If you start by purchasing a pack of β€œembroidery” or β€œcrewel” needles, you will be fine for working surface embroidery. There are usually a few different sizes per pack so that you can use a longer or shorter needle if you prefer, or one with a bigger or smaller eye depending on how many strands of floss you like to work with. I like the DMC needles #3-9 for embroidery, which you can find in most craft stores.

 

pack of dmc needles and acorn needlecase with lots of needles spilling out

 

8. Embroidery Floss

This is a bit embarrassing, but when I first started embroidery, I didn’t know that you could separate the floss strands! Stitching small details was a mystery to me. Clearly I missed the part where they tell you that embroidery floss indeed comes in separable strands! The big brands like DMC and Anchor come in skeins of about 8 meters long made of 6 separable strands. While you can definitely choose to embroider with all 6 strands, knowing that they are separable will definitely be helpful πŸ˜‰. Depending on your project and the style you prefer, you can use only 1 or 2 strands if you like! It’s perfect for working small details, as I finally figured out eventually. If you’re picking out the colours yourself, I recommend pulling out more than you’ll need to try different combinations. This is best done during daylight since thread colours look a little different at night!

 

skein of embroidery floss pulled out a little bit to show separable strands

 

9. Practicing Stitches

Now that you’ve got your pattern transferred to your fabric sitting nicely in the hoop, and a threaded needle ready to go, it’s time to begin stitching at last! The first stitch is the best part of a project (or is it the last?). If you’re unsure how you should begin and end your stitches, I have a full post on it with lots of helpful photos here. As you embroider, whether you’re following a pattern with instructions or following your heart’s desire, don’t hesitate to stop and practice a stitch if you need to. Ripping stitches out of a main project is sometimes necessary, but a great tip to avoid this is to practice something on a piece of scrap fabric first. If you get to a stitch that you don’t know how to do, or you feel like trying something new, practice first! You can have a look at the following tutorials if you need help with any of these stitches:

 

5 embroidery stitches to learn as a beginners
Straight stitch, running stitch, backstitch, splitstitch, stem stitch
the chain stitch easy tutorial
Includes the lazy-daisy stitch
the french knot easy tutorial
embroidery tutorial satin stitch

10. Personalize!

My last tip to successfully begin an embroidery project is to not be afraid to add your own personal touch! Change up the colour palette, use different stitches, add a quote or a touch of ribbon, and use materials you already have to really make the piece your own. I like to use some ribbon, lace, beads, and other bits and pieces in my projects, and it’s an excellent way of really making it unique. Even if you’re a complete beginner, don’t feel β€œbound” to pattern instructions. Follow the basics of embroidery, yes, but don’t be afraid to personalize. It’s immensely satisfying, and really opens the door to creativity.

 

embroidered lavender pattern stitched in two different ways with different colours, one of them in a frame, and a little sprig of dried lavender in between the two pieces
My “Lavande” pattern embroidered with different colours. You can shop this pattern here!

 

I hope these 10 easy tips will help you seamlessly begin your next embroidery project! Whether you’re following someone else’s pattern with instructions or making up your own, taking the time to go through all these little steps before stitching will make a difference. I even like to jot down notes as I embroider (things like what colours I’m using, modifications to the pattern, etc) so I can refer to them later. Happy embroidering my friend, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or comments! I’d love to help.

 

Fondly,

embroidery success: 10 easy tips to begin an embroidery project
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Learn the Satin Stitch: Embroidery Tutorial

     Anne      4 Comments

Welcome to another hand embroidery stitch tutorial! Today, we will be looking at the satin stitch, one of the most popular stitches used in hand embroidery. If you’re new to hand embroidery, this is definitely a great stitch to learn and start practicing!

 

satin stitch embroidery tutorial

 

To begin, you will need basic embroidery supplies: a piece of fabric (just a scrap is perfect for practicing), embroidery scissors, embroidery needle, hoop, and some floss of your choice. I will be using 3 strands of DMC #741 for this tutorial.

If you’d like more information on basic embroidery supplies, you can have a look at this post.

Once your fabric is sitting drum tight in the hoop and your needle is loaded, you will be ready to begin. The satin stitch is a filling stitch, intended to fully cover various shapes. I highly recommend starting with an easy one, like a square or a rectangle.

You will definitely want to draw this shape on the fabric to give you some guidelines. Use a pencil or water-soluble pen (or other marking tool if you prefer). I will be filling in a rectangle, which I drew on my fabric in pencil. I’m using 3 strands here, but you can use as many or as few as you want. The more strands you use, the “chunkier” it will look and the fewer strands you use, the more blended it will look. Keep in mind that using more strands makes it a bit harder for the stitches to lay very flat since the strands tend to twist on themselves. Using few threads takes longer to fill, but we’re in no rush!

 

rectangle shape drawn in pencil over fabric sitting in embroidery hoop

To secure your thread, you can use a knot if you’re just practicing. If you’re working on a project, you might want to start with anchoring stitches or a waste knot instead. I wrote a full post on how to begin & end your stitches if you need extra help.

 

Satin Stitch Tutorial

Normally with the satin stitch, you want to begin in the middle of your shape (with a square or a rectangle that doesn’t matter as much since the shape is the same all around). This is because it’s a stitch that closely follows the shape you’re filling and it’s often easier to begin in the middle than at the edge.

 

  1. Bring your needle up from the back at point A and go back down in B, forming a straight stitch. You can choose to work horizontally or vertically depending on what you prefer and the shape that you’re filling.
straight stitch going from point A to B to form the first satin stitch to fill rectangle

 

2. Choose to fill either the left or right side first. Here, I will be doing the left. Bring your needle up again at point C, directly beside point A, and go back down in D. You should now have two straight stitches laying side by side.

second stitch being made beside the first; point C directly beside point A and point D beside point B
second stitch laying flat beside the first to begin row of satin stitch

3. Continue in the same way until half of the shape is fully covered. Stitches should be nice and tight, one directly beside each other without overlapping or splitting, following the shape you’re filling. With a rectangle, each stitch should be exactly the same length, starting and ending right beside each other. Be careful not to pull too hard, or it will distort the shape. The stitches should just be laying on the fabric, tight against each other but not tightly pulled. You will definitely want your fabric held taught in the hoop.

half of the rectangle filled with satin stitch

 

Ideally, you also always want to work each stitch in the same direction. I prefer to work this stitch vertically from bottom to top, so I always start each stitch at the bottom edge and work upwards. But you can do the opposite, or work horizontally from left to right or vice versa. Sometimes it will also depend on what kind of shape you’re working with.

 

4. Once the first half is done, you can secure your thread and cut it to start anew, or simply drag it behind the stitches you’ve already lain to fill the other half.

Fill the second half just as you’ve done the first, working in the same direction!

rectangle completely filled with satin stitch

 

Filling a Shape With an Outline

Filling stitches often benefit from having the shape stitched with an outline first. Here I drew a crescent shape onto my fabric and outlined it with a splitstitch.

crescent moon shape outlined in splitstitch

This will help to give me a nicer edge, especially at the points. Each stitch begins and ends right outside of this splitstitch edge, covering it entirely.

 

Another thing I like to do that I find really helpful, is to place guiding stitches along the way and fill small areas at a time. In other words, I place stitches to split the area in smaller and smaller halves, and then fill them in. This is especially helpful to keep a shape like a crescent.

crescent shape being filled with satin stitch and guiding stitches to fill small areas at a time

 

When you get to the small points, take your time to make very small stitches that are still straight and flat.

crescent moon filled with satin stitch

 

Satin Stitch Pumpkin

While I was preparing this tutorial, I started embroidering a little pumpkin in this style and found it was a really great shape for practicing the satin stitch. I’ve been seeing a lot of them all over my Instagram and they’re really cute, though not exactly my normal stitching style. I tend to favour just an outline or the long & short stitch for filling my designs, but I decided to give this look a try and rather like the result! I couldn’t leave it at just the satin stitch though, so I added a backstitch outline all around it to give it more dimension (and hide my uneven satin stitch hahahaha!!). This outline was added after the satin stitch filling. I outlined the pumpkin with splitstitch first, then satin stitched to cover that outline. The backstitch was added last, as a finishing touch.

embroidered pumpkin in satin stitch and backstitch outline
embroidered pumpkin in satin stitch view from side

Here is the mini-pattern I used, if you fancy practicing your satin stitch and you’re still in the mood for some fall stitching! I’m terrible at drawing anything directly on fabric and like a good pattern for everything, so here’s this sweet pumpkin I made:

pumpkin outline for satin stitch practice

Feel free to print it if you want to use it, and let’s see that satin stitch! 😊

 

I hope you found this tutorial helpful, and as always don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions!

Fondly,

learn how to do the satin stitch
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