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Jam Jar Bonnets: Tutorial & Free Pattern

     Anne      Leave a Comment

Happy Canadian Thanksgiving!! The turkey is roasting in the oven, the colourful leaves are slowly falling, and the geese are (loudly) flying overhead. The air smells of cinnamon and apples and fun afternoon craft projects! I hope you’ve been enjoying some autumn fun and good weather lately (or summer fun, if you’re in the southern hemisphere!). It’s been delightfully warm this week for this time of year, and I’ve had a lot of fun putting together a little something to share with you: jam jar bonnets!!

 

jar bonnets project tutorial

 

Jam Jar Bonnets

I’ve been seeing the cutest ones all over Instagram, and since we’ve been making loads of jelly this season, I thought I really needed to make a few to decorate our jars! Of course, what better opportunity for a little embroidery? In today’s post, I’m going to share how I made my jar bonnets, featuring some cute apples and grapes 😊. Keep in mind there are probably hundreds of different ways you can make jar bonnets, so feel free to use different materials and experiment a bit!

 

jam jars decorated with embroidered bonnets
decorated jam jars with embroidered bonnets
front view of jam jars with decorative embroidered bonnets

 

Free Embroidery Pattern

And, as a thank-you in honour of Thanksgiving, I’m throwing in a bonus freebie: the Apple Jelly embroidery pattern! I turned it into a downloadable PDF file, ready to print if you wish, with step-by-step instructions and photos of how to stitch it. I hope you like it! It was absolutely delightful to create and stitch up, and fits perfectly atop a jar of apple jelly. So if you’re looking to decorate your jar bonnets, I’ve got just the pattern for you!

APPLE JELLY PDF EMBROIDERY PATTERNDownload

 

finished apple jelly embroidery jar bonnet tied around jar

If you want to turn it into a jar bonnet like I made, what I suggest is that you first stitch up the Apple Jelly pattern, and then come back to this tutorial! I’ll even save you a piece of pumpkin pie and you can have some leftover turkey. 😉

 

Jar Bonnet Tutorial With Embroidered Appliqué

 

I will be using a similar method for the appliqué part to what I did in my Winnie the Pooh Pillow project. I’m using a standard mason jar with ring lid, measuring 2 3/4″ in diameter (outer ring).

 

Materials You Will Need:

materials you need to make the jar bonnets: fabric, thread, mason jar, sewing scissors, pinking shears, fray check glue, tailor's awl, sewing thread and embroidered apple jelly pattern

 

  • Your Apple Jelly embroidery
  • Scrap fabric with which to make the bonnet. I used cotton scraps from an old curtain. Cotton or linen will work very well for this. You can even use the same fabric as your embroidery and skip the appliqué if you want! Just make sure that you cut out a piece big enough before you start stitching.
  • A piece of twine cord approx. 21 1/2″ long, or any ribbon, lace, etc. which you would like to wrap around your bonnet.
  • Pinking shears for finishing the edges. (You can also use a serger or an overcast stitch on your sewing machine if you have those).
  • Sewing shears for cutting out fabric.
  • Jar with a lid
  • A bit of Fray Check glue or other fabric glue for the ends of the twine cord.
  • A small tailor’s awl for piercing the fabric. (I also used a knitting bodkin to make my holes slightly larger.)
  • A ruler and marking tool will also be very useful (I used a water-soluble pen).
  • Pins for holding the appliqué in place.
  • Matching sewing thread for sewing the appliqué
  • Black embroidery floss
  • Sewing needle and embroidery needle

If you want to make the gathered ruffle variation (detailed at the end of this post), you will also need: a sewing machine, and thread to match the ruffle fabric.

 

Instructions:

  1. To begin, un-hoop the embroidery and give it a gentle press with the iron. Always press good-side down, and try to avoid going over the stitches. Ideally you just want to remove the hoop marks.

 

2. Once that’s done, take the ring that goes around your jam jar (or whatever lid it has), and trace the inner circle around your embroidery, on the wrong side of the fabric. We will be appliquéing it onto another piece of fabric. I didn’t add seam allowance because I know I want my appliqué slightly smaller than the ring’s inner circle size (so I’ve already included it). If you want your appliqué to be bigger or smaller (or prefer to work with a larger seam allowance), adjust your markings accordingly and add seam allowance if desired.

trace the inner jar ring around your embroidery

 

3. Clip into the seam allowance a few times with your embroidery scissors, no more than 2 or 3 mm deep (about an 1/8 inch). This helps to fold the SA down smoothly. Fold down about ¼” all around to the wrong side, and press in place. Don’t worry if it doesn’t look too even and a bit jagged. I find it easier to fix as I’m sewing it down than fiddling with the iron.

You can also choose to leave the edge raw and sew in place with a blanket-stitch.

seam allowance clipped in a few millimeters to fold it smoothly
seam allowance folded all around embroidery work
view of the good side of embroidery work once seam allowance has been folded down

4. With your pinking shears, cut out a circle of your decorative fabric the size you would like your finished jar bonnet to be. Mine was 5 1/4” in diameter.

circle of decorative fabric cut with pinking shears

 

5. Cut a length of twine cord, long enough to wrap once around your jar and tie in a little bow, about 21 1/2″ long. Apply Fray Check to the ends to prevent them from fraying and make them easier to thread later.

twine cord ends dipped in Fray Check glue

 

6. Center the prepared embroidery work over the fabric and pin in place.

embroidered appliqué piece centered and pinned onto main fabric

 

7. Sew the appliqué with an invisible stitch. I used a small whipstitch, coming up through the main fabric, then through the fold of the appliqué, and back down into the main fabric.

appliqué being sewed down with whipstich
side view of the finished appliqué

7. If you want to add a border around the appliqué, pop the jar bonnet back into the embroidery hoop and embroider the outline stitch of your choice.  I used the stem stitch, but it looks like one continuous line!

Note: There are many different ways to appliqué, so feel free to use another method. You could do needle-turn, or even just leave the edge raw and stitch it down with blanket stitch.

stem stitch with black embroidery floss around the appliqué
finished hem stitch border around embroidered appliqué

8. Flip the bonnet to the wrong side and place the ring or lid over it to measure where you’d like the twine to be woven into the fabric to tie it. To do this, I traced the outer ring circle onto the fabric, then measured 2cm (3/4″) down. I used a water-soluble pen to mark dots along this measurement, 1 cm apart around the bonnet. Leave a 4cm ((1 1/2″) gap at the front of the bonnet to be able to tie the string in a bow.

mark 2cm up from the jar bonnet's edge all around, making your marks 1 cm apart
4 cm gap between marks at the front of the bonnet

9. Using a tailor’s awl, poke holes in the spots where you made your markings. My awl made the holes too small, so I used a plastic knitting bodkin to make them slightly bigger.

knitting bodkin to make holes bigger around the jar bonnet

 

10. Once the glue has dried on the ends of the twine cord, weave it through the holes you just created. Start at the front on one end, going down from the good side and back up through the next hole. Thread it all around, and your jar bonnet is all done and ready to be tied onto your jar!

twine cord threaded around jar bonnet
bonnet tied in a bow around jam jar

 

Note that this isn’t a very tight or secure bonnet, it’s really just a decoration. The bonnet just rests atop the lid, and the twine bow prevents it from sliding.

 

Gathered Ruffle Variation

As I mentioned earlier, there are so many different ways to make jar bonnets, and it’s an excellent project for just using what you already have in your stash and display pretty fabric scraps. I made a second embroidery piece for an apple & grape jelly jar, and tried another way to make the bonnet.

 

To make a gathered ruffle with twine cord, here’s what you can do:

  1. First, cut a length of the fabric of your choice about 2 ¼” x 16”. You can make it longer if you want more gathers, and wider if you want it to drape lower over your jar. I will be attaching this gathered ruffle to a second piece of decorative embroidery, so I cut my fabric length a few inches longer than the circumference of that piece, to be able to gather the fabric around it. Pink the edges of the two short ends with your pinking shears.
length of fabric 16 inches long to make the gathered ruffle

 

2. On the wrong side of the fabric, turn one of the long edges ¼” in, and press down. Turn it ¼” again to hide the raw edge, and press in place.

 

3. Sew along this fold with your sewing machine to create the hem, sewing close to the fold.

ruffle hem being sewn down at the sewing machine

 

4. Fold the shorter, pinked ends ¼” to the wrong side of the fabric, and stitch in place.

 

5. Now we will make a channel for the twine cord, which is what will create the gathering effect. On the wrong side of the fabric, fold the remaining raw edge down ¼” (press if you need), and down again about 3/8”. You want it to be large enough to create an opening to thread your cord through.

 

Note: You can easily substitute the twine cord for ribbon or lace!

fold the remaining raw edge down 1/4" on the wrong side of the fabric
fold the edge down again 3/8" to create a channel

6. At your sewing machine, sew down the fold, as close to the edge as you can. This is what you should have so far:

prepared ruffle, ready to be threaded with cord

 

7. Using a safety pin or elastic threader, thread the twine through the channel. Pull on the cord to gather the ruffle to fit around your piece of embroidery (or other piece of decorative fabric or whatever you choose to attach it to).

twine cord pulled through channel and gathered into a ruffle

 

8. Sew the ruffle by hand around the embroidery or other piece of fabric with an invisible stitch (a slipstitch would work really well). I used a scant ¼” seam allowance for the embroidery piece, and pinked and clipped along the edge. You can also use another seam finish if you prefer.

close up view of sewn ruffle to embroidery piece
wrong side view of finished jar bonnet

And that’s it, your jar bonnet is finished!

finished jar bonnet viewed from the good side
finished jar bonnet sitting atop mason jar
top view of embroidered jar bonnet with pomme raisin embroidery
top view of both jars with finished embroidered jar bonnets

 

Ready to decorate all your jars?

I hope that you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and that it inspires you to decorate your jars with sweet little bonnets. It doesn’t take that long to make depending on how detailed your embroidery is, and the bonnets go together very easily. A really fun, easy project for a cozy autumn weekend! They’re perfect to give as gifts, or keep to yourself to add a little beauty to your jam shelf.

If you make this project and use my Apple Jelly pattern, I would absolutely love to see your creations! You can tag me on Instagram @northerbelle.atelier. Also if you have any questions or feedback about the pattern/tutorial, please don’t hesitate to let me know 😊

 

Happy Thanksgiving, and happy jar bonnet-making!

 

Fondly,

free embroidery pattern apple jelly
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Make Darling Embroidered Buttons: Tutorial

     Anne      Leave a Comment

Hello and welcome back to my blog! In today’s post, I have a new tutorial for you – we’re going to make embroidered fabric-covered buttons. 😊 They’re soooo much fun and very easy to make.

 

embroidered buttons step-by-step tutorial

 

One of the things I love the most about embroidery is how easily you can weave it anywhere you want, especially on clothing. The endless possibilities for embellishing your clothes with embroidery are mind-blowing. What better way to create something absolutely uniquely yours. In my last year of Costume Studies, I tried to incorporate embroidered touches as much as I could in the projects we got to make for ourselves.

 

Buttons on a Dress

 

I designed and sewed this cute lilac dress for an assignment in Draping, and couldn’t resist the opportunity to add a bit of embroidery.

 

girl in a field wearing lilac dress with embroidered buttons
girl in field wearing lilac dress holding flower bouquet up to her face

 

I had previously discovered (and became enamoured with) fabric-covered buttons while working on an assignment for another class. They were so fun and easy to work that I knew I had to get my own kit for making them.

They don’t have to be embroidered of course, you can definitely just cover them with any fabric you like. But everything is better with embroidery, so I just had to give it a go. I love how they look on this dress. They’re so cute and dainty and exactly what I had in mind.

 

close-up of embroidered buttons on dress front

 

Embroidered Fabric-Covered Buttons Tutorial

 

Without further ado, let me show you how to make your own! It’s very easy and adds such a detailed personal touch. The embroidery is very small though, so it might be a bit challenging in that respect, but it also means the design isn’t very detailed.

The tiny flower cluster I went with is very easy to stitch. Here we go!

 

Materials

 

First, you will want to gather the following supplies:

materials for making the embroidered buttons; button kit, fabric, paper scissors, fabric shears, snips, embroidery hoop, embroidery floss, needles, marking tools, wood block

 

You will need fabric, either to match an existing project, or something different entirely. The lilac fabric I used for my dress was 100 % cotton, and the pale turquoise I’m using for the tutorial is a cotton as well. I recommend using a medium weight fabric, or a thinner fabric with interfacing. You will also need fabric shears to cut the fabric.

 

Next, you will need basic embroidery supplies:

  • Snips
  • Needle (I used DMC #9 embroidery needle)
  • 3 1/4″ inch embroidery hoop (you can use a bigger one too if you’re making many buttons on the same piece of fabric)
  • Floss: for the tutorial, I used DMC #3347, #744, #402
  • Marking tools: A water-soluble pen (or any other “erasable” pen) is useful for this project and/or a pencil.

You will also need a button-covering kit. These can be found in fabric stores such as Fabricville (Canada) or Jo-Ann’s.

 

Inside the kit you should have:

 

  • Buttons to cover
buttons to cover

 

They have two parts. The top is shaped like a dome and has a smooth surface, and the back is a little disk with the shank on top.

button to cover separated; smooth surface top and bottom with shank

 

  • A plastic holder
plastic holder for covering buttons

 

  • A “pusher”
plastic pusher for covering buttons with fabric

 

  • Instructions and template

Don’t throw out the packaging! Likely, the kit’s instructions will be written on it. You will need the templates that are printed on the back of the package.

back instructions and templates for fabric-covered buttons

 

The kit you buy will tell you what button size is included. The one I got was for #24 buttons, so that means I will cut out #24 circular template on the back.

bottom of packaging shows what size of buttons and template to cut
circle template cut out from back packaging
The cutout template here is from another kit.

And lastly, you will need paper scissors to cut out the template, and an optional piece of wood (or other smooth and slightly heavy object) to help with making the buttons.

 

The Tutorial:

 

  1. Cut a piece of fabric to fit inside your embroidery hoop. Consider how many buttons you want to make. If you’re making the #24 size, you will need approx. 5/8” in between each.

fabric cut to fit inside small embroidery hoop

 

2. Mark the size of the button on your fabric to determine where to embroider. Normally markings are made on the wrong side of the fabric, but in this case that wouldn’t be very helpful. This is why an erasable pen works well, because you will be able to get rid of the mark easily. You can also use chalk or a heat-erasable pen if that works for you.

trace the button size on your fabric

 

3. Make any markings you might need for your embroidery design. Because it’s so small you might prefer not to mark anything. I used a 0.5 mechanical pencil to lightly mark the stem and leaf placement of my flower. If you want to make the same design I did, simply draw a vertical line for the main stem. Add two little lines at an upward angle about the middle of the stem, one on each side for the leaves. I also added two slightly longer lines angled upwards at the top of the stem for more “leaves”. You can definitely do all this with your thread though, and skip the markings entirely. I work more steadily with markings so I prefer to do it.

make any markings you need for your embroidery within the button size

 

4. Embroider the design. Place the fabric inside your hoop and tighten the screw until the fabric is nicely taut. Thread your needle with 2 strands of DMC #3347 or the colour of your choice. I’m using a knot to secure my thread because it makes the most sense for such a tiny area. See this post on how to start & end your threads for other methods.

 

a) Stitch the main stem and upper “leaves” with a splitstitch or other outline stitch of your choice. The leaves are so tiny that they’re just a small straight stitch.

b) Work French knots above the stem using two strands of DMC #402 and #744 to create the flower cluster. There is no real order to this, just scatter the knots as you wish to create a flower head or cluster form.

 

tiny flower embroidery tutorial

 

Embroidery is done! Secure your threads at the back and un-hoop your fabric.

 

5. Cut out the appropriate template at the back of your button kit packaging (I’m using size 24) and place it evenly over your embroidery. You can do this at the back too, but I find it’s more accurate to do it on the good side. Trace the template with a pencil or erasable pen. This creates the seam allowance necessary to cover the button successfully.

place the circle template over your embroidery to cut seam allowance
seam allowance added all around the emroidery

6. Cut out your fabric along the template line you just marked.

cut out button cover with seam allowance

 

7. Take the plastic holder, and center your embroidered fabric over its hole. The original marking you made of the button top should fit right along the edge of the white thing. You can also center the white thing on your fabric right side up first if that’s easier, then slowly turn it around so that the fabric is closest to you, good side facing the hole.

place the plastic holder right over the embroidery, the original button marking right around the edge of the holder
flip the holder over so that the fabric rests good side down against it

8. Place the button top smooth face down on the fabric. Make sure it’s well centered over the embroidery.

button dome face down over embroidered fabric

 

9. Push down with your thumb, or the pusher provided in the kit (I like to use a piece of wood to push down on the pusher to make it even easier). The button top will end up at the bottom of the holder and the seam allowance will fold on itself around the dome. If you see that the button isn’t straight, that there is too much fabric on one side and not enough on another, you can pop the button out and start again, re-centering your fabric better.

thumb pushing the button to the bottom of the holder
pusher is put over the button piece, and a block of wood used to push down on it

10. If you’re satisfied with the eveness of the seam allowance, push down gently on it even more to make sure none of it sticks out. Add the button back, shank facing up atop the folded seam allowance.

seam allowance folds on itself around the button dome inside the holder
button back placed atop the folded seam allowance, on top of the holder

11. Here is where the pusher is definitely useful! Place it over the shank (the hole covering the shank) and push down until you feel it sink in to the button top. I like to use the piece of wood again to push down, but you can do it with your palm or another object.

pusher placed over the shank of the button back
hands pushing a wooden block on the plastic pusher to secure button back

12. Pop the button out of the holder.

hands pushing the covered button out of the holder

 

13. Pray and hope the embroidery is well-centered.

embroidered fabric-covered button

 

14. CONGRATS, YOU DID IT!!!!! Look at that cute little button!

finished embroidered button seen from the front

And that’s it! Now you’re ready to cover everything with embroidered buttons. 😉

 

how to make a covered button step-by-step tutorial

 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it will give you some inspiration for adding subtle and delicate touches of embroidery to your work. The good news with this sort of embroidery, too, is that it doesn’t take long at all, but really pulls an outfit together.

The lilac dress would be very different without the embroidered buttons.

 

lilac dress close-up on embroidered buttons down bodice front
close-up of top embroidered button on lilac dress bodice front

 

I added embroidery to the back as well, but not because I wanted to add more delicate touches. No, I added embroidery there BECAUSE I CUT A HOLE WITH THE SERGER. A big, super noticeable gash right in the middle of the mid-riff section, just before my project was due. If you know me, this is EXACTLY the kind of stupid mistake I often make and there is zero surprise in this happening, BUT IT WAS A SAD MOMENT.

 

view of embroidered bodice on lilac dress back

 

Thankfully, embroidery is here to solve all your problems, so I just mended it with matching thread first, then covered up the ugly scar with a little branch of some nondescript purple flower.

HA! TAKE THAT, SERGER.

 

model wearing lilac dress in field leaning forward with flower bouquet

 

Thank you for coming to “Part 75 Why Anne Will Never Buy a Serger”.

Have a lovely week and happy button-covering!

 

Fondly,

learn how to make embroidered buttons
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Simple Project: Embroidered Pillow

     Anne      Leave a Comment

Hello friend! I wasn’t sure if I was going to post about this embroidered pillow project, but it turned out so cute and so much better than I thought, so here we are! I tried something different with my embroidery and really liked it.

 

simple sewing project embroidered pillow

 

I’ve had this super adorable Winnie the Pooh fabric in my stash for a few years, but I don’t often make things that are baby-themed (although if I’m honest, I sorta bought that fabric for myself because I’m obsessed with Winnie the Pooh). But I went to a dear friend’s baby-shower last weekend, and thought it was the perfect opportunity to use some of the fabric.

 

winnie-the-pooh fabric and embroidered patch

 

I also had a little pillow with no cover at the back of my closet and knew the fabric would be perfect for it! Never one to pass up an opportunity to add embroidery everywhere, I decided to have one side of the pillowcase embroidered, and the other side showing off the cute fabric.

 

embroidered side of the pillow
non-embroidered side of the pillow showing winnie-the-pooh fabric

 

Appliqué & Embroidery

 

I cut out one of the scenes I liked from the Pooh fabric and appliquéd it onto some pale yellow cotton. The Pooh fabric print is rather pale, especially the outline of each scene, so to make it pop out a bit more I decided to embroider just the outline. I used two strands of DMC #3021 for most of it, and only one strand for the smaller details, like Piglet’s stripes.

 

close-up of winnie-the-pooh fabric
embroidered winnie-the-pooh fabric close-up, sewn onto yellow fabric
close up of embroidered winnie the pooh and piglet

 

I really, really love the outcome! It looks so textured and alive. The paleness of the fabric print gives it a sort of watercolour look that suits it so well! And it was so relaxing to stitch, because I didn’t have to think about colours and I just followed the outline that was already there. I used a backstitch for the whole thing.

 

embroidered appliqué patch for pillow front
Also I love my Piglet needle-minder so much!! So perfect for this project!

 

Sewing the Pillowcase

 

To make the pillowcase I bagged both the front and back with some white cotton. This made the case sturdier, better for washing, and hid the back of the embroidery work (yellow fabric was really see-through!). I decided to leave an opening along the right side to make it easier to remove for washing.

 

pillow case opening on the side fastened with ribbons

 

And of course, I added a ribbon closure, because I love a good ribbon closure 😉. I find it’s a very pretty finishing touch and makes the pillow look more decorative. That way my friend can use it for her baby as an actual pillow, or just display it in the nursery.

 

close up of embroidered pillow case opening with ribbons

 

Overall I am really pleased with how this embroidered pillow turned out, and the appliquéd/embroidery on fabric print idea was definitely a win! I wouldn’t necessarily do that on any fabric, but the Pooh one was very well suited for that.

Now I’m half-tempted to make one for myself…not for my non-existing nursery, but myself 😉.

‘We’ll be friends forever, won’t we, Pooh?’ asked Piglet. ‘Even longer,’ Pooh answered.

A.A. MILNE, WINNIE-THE-POOH

 

Embroidered Winnie-the-Pooh patch surrounded by sewing tools and pooh fabric

 

Are you also a Winnie-the-Pooh fan? If so, who’s your favourite character? I simply can’t resist Piglet, he’s just too cute!!  

I hope you enjoyed this little bit of Pooh inspiration and embroidery on printed fabric! Has anyone else tried that before, and how did it work for you? Would love to hear from you!

Follow along on Instagram or check out my embroidery patterns on Etsy!

Fondly,

winnie-the-pooh embroidered pillow easy sewing project
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Stitch Book to Practice Embroidery

     Anne      Leave a Comment

I am so happy to present you my stitch book! It’s like a sort of physical version of the Diary of a Northern Belle. When I first got the idea for this blog name, I knew I’d have to embroider a little something to represent it. When I started the embroidery on the front cover, I intended it to cover the box I used in the Redwork Box Project. Then I thought it would be more appropriate to turn it into a little “diary” of sorts. A place where I could store pieces of fabric with practice stitches and half-finished projects. I had been meaning to sew myself a little book to practice stitches for a while now, but none of the styles I came across suited me. So I had to make my own! 

angled view of the finished stitch book, closed, showing the embroidered cover

The embroidery on the front cover features one of those vintage “Southern belle” ladies.  Except this particular one is northern, of course. 😉 There is also historical edging taken from an 1860s pattern, as well as some of my own design. My northern belle needed a pile of books and a warm cup of tea. And of course, adding titles and quotes always ties everything nicely together!

flat lay of the embroidered front cover of the stitch book, featuring a "Sounthern belle" lady on a bench with books and a cup of tea beside her, grass at her feet, and the words "Diary of a Northern Belle" stitched in cursive above her. In all four corners of the cover are stitched little red berries surrounded by a white scalloped edge.

close up view of the front cover embroidery; title "The Diary of a Northern Belle" stitched to represent cursive letters; the head of the Southern Belle lady, and the little berries decorating the two upper corners

The vintage pattern I used can be found here.

 

Touches of Historical Embroidery

The little branches of red berries found on all four corners of the front cover, and on the two upper corners of the left inside cover were taken from the embroidery section of the Ladies’ Handbook of Fancy and Ornamental Work. The copy I have is a 2016 unabridged reproduction of the collection by Florence Hartley. It was originally published in 1889 and features directions and patterns from the American Civil War era.

cover of "The Ladies' Handbook of Fancy and Ornamental Work" by Florence Hartley

The little berries can be found on p. 131, labeled “edging”. Edging patterns were used to add needleworked embellishment on various items such as handkerchiefs, collars, or skirt hems.

view of open page from the Ladies' Handbook showing the edging pattern used for the little berry motif

I really wanted to decorate the corners of my stitch book cover. So, I decided to embroider only one of the little motifs in each corner, and I really like the outcome! A full row would also look super cute, maybe around sleeve cuffs or a skirt hem.

close up view of the embroidered cherry motif

I actually contemplated embroidering a row of the little cherries on the right inside pocket. However, since the background fabric of the inside cover already featured very similar little berries, I thought it would be just a little too similar. I opted for the edging pattern on the same page that’s right above. It also looks like a berry, but is different enough from the fabric print.

closer view of edging patterns in the Ladies' Handbook to show the one that will be embroidered on the stitch book's left inside pocket

I decided to stitch the edging with colours that matched the background fabric of the inside cover. By making the berry white, it doesn’t so much look like a berry anymore.

close up of embroidered border on the inside pocket, featuring an edging pattern stitched in white and blue using Perle cotton thread

I’m also quite pleased with how it turned out, aside from the dramatic angle it took because I apparently can’t follow a straight line…. But the embroidery itself turned out quite well, I think! I tried Perle Cotton thread (no. 5, white) for the first time and I must say I rather like it. I’ve since been looking for a new project where I could use it in order to justify buying more. It gives it a sort of crocheted baby-blanket look, if that makes any sense at all.

view of open stitch book showing the embroidered border on the left inside pocket

The Ladies’ Handbook is a great resource so far, including patterns and instructions for various kinds of needlework. The embroidery section features a lot of detailed handkerchief borders and beautiful flower designs. I will definitely have recourse to it again in the future!

Embroidery Stitches

Specific instructions or stitch suggestions as to how to work the edging patterns are not provided in the Ladies’ Handbook. I decided to keep it fairly simple for this project. With the exception of the little hedgehog on the inside left pocket, the red berries, and some elements of the border on the right pocket, everything is done in outline stitches.  I mainly used the split and back stitches.

close-up of embroidered northern belle seated on a bench to showcase various stitches like the backstitch, splitstich, stem stitch and straight stitch

close-up of embroidered 1860s motif depicting a cherry branch, highlighting French knots, satin stitch, and lazy-daisy stitches

Some of the detail elements are done in satin stitch, lazy-daisy and French knots (which I plan on providing a tutorial for very soon). I’ve also used straight stitches for the grass on the front cover and the pine needles on the inside left pocket.

view of embroidered right pocket, featuring a pine branch with pinecones, and a little hedgehog

close up view of embroidered pine branch with pinecones

The little hedgehog and the pine branch emerged from little sketches I made. I kept being drawn to little woodland creatures and autumny, woodsy things while planning the project and wanted to find a way to incorporate some of them into the overall design. I worked the hedgehog in a sort of very unofficial needlepainting method with long & short stitches that didn’t always end up where I wanted them…

closer view of embroidered hedgehog

…but in the end it didn’t turn out too bad and I’m very happy with it!! <3

 

Making the Stitch Book

When I first got the idea of making a stitch book to practice my embroidery stitches, I knew that it would need “pages” of fabric to practice and experiment with stitches, but I didn’t want them to be attached to the book. I wanted to be able to add and remove them as I needed. That way, it’s much easier to mount a single piece of fabric onto the embroidery hoop rather than a piece of fabric attached to the stitch book. I also didn’t want all the pages to be predetermined and I wanted to be able to easily add new ones without having to sew them in each time.

open view of stitch book, showing dark blue ribbon threaded through book "spine"

So my solution to that was simply to thread a piece ribbon through the “spine” of the book. By tying it in a bow, I can easily add and remove fabric pages. 

flat lay view of open stitch book showing fabric pages attached to ribbon closure

And it works for attaching a fabric page of any size that isn’t overly bigger than the book itself, because smaller pages can be threaded through only one end of the ribbon and still remain attached.

close up view of open stitch book showing a small fabric page attached to ribbon closure

Plus, there are the two inside pockets too, if I need to stuff smaller bits or carry my snips and some floss.

flat lay view of open stitch pocket to show both left and right side pockets

The construction process was overall pretty simple. I did a bit of piecework on the front cover to frame the embroidery, and I used fusible interfacing to stiffen both the front and back covers, as well as the spine. The ribbon closure on the side keeps the book closed and matches the one on the inside.

flat lay view of front cover and small fabric pieces used to frame the main embroidery

flat lay view of various fabric pieces used for making the stitch book; front cover, back cover, pocket pieces

view of fabric pieces being assembled to form outside of stitch book; front cover, spine, and back cover
Adding an extra piece of fabric as a “spine” so it will close nicely and there will be room for fabric pages.
front and back covers with fusible interfacing
Front and back covers reinforced with fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric.
close up view of closed stitched book featuring the side ribbon closure
Stitchbook opens and closes with another piece of ribbon 🙂

Originally, I had intended to make a tutorial post on how I made this stitch book, but there ended up being a little too much improvisation here and there, as well as mad scrambling around for fabric scraps. So I decided to save that for another time when I inevitably make another one, if it’s something that would interest you. Don’t hesitate to let me know in the comments!

flat lay view of closed stitchbook showing embroidered front cover. Stitchbook is surrounded by pinecone props and other dried flowers, as well as winded red floss and red autumn leaves
Finished dimensions are 8” x 9”, a little bit bigger than your average book or journal.

flat lay view of closed stitch book showing the back cover

Thanks so much for reading, and I hope this was at least a bit inspirational! 😊 I’m looking forward to filling my new little book with all sorts of fun stitches!

Fondly,

Redwork Embroidery: upcycling with this great 19th century technique

     Anne      Leave a Comment

Ever since I started embroidery a few years ago, simple vintage designs featuring pretty flowers and helpful little animals have been one of my favourite go-tos. There is something so pleasing about their simplicity, and they’re so easy and quick to stitch. Perfect for beginners, and perfect for adding handstitched touches here and there without it taking too long. And that’s exactly what redwork embroidery is all about!

redwork embroidery vintage birds and hoop stitched in red thread

I’m the absolute worst when it comes to deciding what to embroider because there are just SO many options! I’m working on improving my own doodling and drawing skills to be able to stitch more of my own designs, but I do love working with vintage and historical designs – and what better place to browse for them than Pinterest? Which can easily end up taking hours since we all know Pinterest is a most wonderful vortex of endless ideas! And if choosing or coming up with a design wasn’t time-consuming already, choosing floss colours can take just as long!

An easy solution to that demanding conundrum is to opt for a single-colour technique like Redwork.

vintage teacup pincushion with close-up view of an assortment of red embroidery threads

 

What is Redwork?

As you might have guessed, rework is embroidery worked entirely in red thread, typically on white fabric (like linen or cotton). It emerged in the late 19th century,  when red was one of the only colourfast dyed threads available on the market. Easily accessible to people of all classes, it was often worked on schoolgirls’ samplers and embroidered on various home items such as pillows and tablecloths. Its popularity endured well into the 20th century and is still practiced today, especially on quilts and other patchwork. Redwork designs are typically very simple and full of old country charm. It features things like Sunbonnet Sues, flowers, fruits and vegetables, birds, and other cute little animals. Of course, there are no limits to what you can choose to embroider in redwork! Any design of your choice worked entirely in red thread can constitute redwork.

redwork embroidery vintage bird holding a piece of thread in its beak

 

Advantages of Redwork

Redwork is probably one of the most beginner-friendly types of embroidery out there. If you’re looking to start stitching, a redwork project would be an excellent place to start. Not only don’t you have to worry about colours, but redwork designs are usually all worked in basic outline stitches, using very few variations and little to no filling. Typical stitches used in redwork include the backstitch, split stitch, stem stitch, French knot, lazy-daisy, and sometimes a bit of satin stitch. You can easily decide to combine as few or as many as you want.

 

vintage bird design in redwork embroidery using splitstitch outlining technique (in progress)
Little bird outlined in splitstitch and “Wednesday” part of the title worked in backstitch.

Even for the seasoned embroiderer, the charm and simplicity of redwork lends itself beautifully to handmade accents for the kitchen or the sewing room. Plus, if you don’t worry about filling in any shape, it’s so quick to stitch!

lazy-daisy stitches to create flowers and leaves on embroidery hoop part of the design
I used the lazy-daisy stitch to create the flowers and leaves on the embroidery hoop design. The bird is done in splitstich and straight stitch (for the line details), and the needle and thread and done in backstitch.

 

Box Project

I had been wanting to try redwork for a while now, ever since falling in love with those cute, whimsical vintage patterns found all over the Internet. This box project was the perfect opportunity. In an effort to further organize my embroidery supplies, I decided to convert an empty Lindt chocolate box into a nice cozy home for them. As always, I spent an inordinate amount of time trying to decide what to embroider on the lid…in the end, I finally decided to try redwork thanks to my fabric choice.

finished project filled with various sewing supplies like lace, thread, embroidery hoop, floss

 

I have this bag of miscellaneous quilting cotton squares (used for anything except quilting, apparently) and I had just the right amount of the red gingham ones to go around the box to cover it. And what would look better paired with red gingham than redwork!

 

materials used to upcycle an old chocolate box: fabric, ruler, pencil, scissors, embroidered fabric to cover the lid
red gingham quilting squares and bird snips
box lid cover in progress - gingham squares sewn to main embroidered fabric

 

I chose a vintage “sew on Wednesday” design found via Pinterest, modified a little by adding my own quote. You can see the original here.

I worked most of it in backstitch and splitstich. I also used lazy-daisy for the flowers and some straight stitches here and there. It was super quick and easy! Using only one colour made it so much easier to re-thread the needle and carry the project with me for on-the-go stitching! I used two strands of DMC no. 816 for the entire design.

 

full view of redwork embroidery birds and embroidery hoop

 

I love filling blank spaces, so naturally I had to add a few other decorative touches, and found some little scraps of lace and the cutest buttons in the perfect shade of red.

 

close-up of red button and white lace used to decorate box lid corners

I sewed my little 3×3’’ gingham squares together to go around the lid, and then I stitched them to the redworked fabric for the lid top. More squares were sewn together to go around the bottom of the box, and hot glued them to the inside to hold in place.

red gingham squares going around the box
gingham fabric being hot glued around box

 

Turns out hot glue + fabric create bulk! No! Who would have thought?! Lo and behold, said bulk made the lid too small for the bottom and my box could no longer close…OOPS. Clearly I did not think this through. Guess that’s why they always told us not to mix fabric and glue in Costume Studies, lol!!

At least, I had started with the lid and the bottom was yet untouched. I was able to cut open one side and cut off a bit of the box bottom to make it smaller to fit under the lid. I can’t cut a straight line to save my life so it turned out crooked, but you can’t tell once the box is closed. And it closes so that’s all that matters!! 😉

 

finished box covered with fabric and redwork embroidery
Finished dimensions ended up being 6 1/2″ x 8 3/4″

 

Overall I’m very happy with it despite its imperfections. It makes a charming addition to my attempts at organizing, and my little birds remind me to stitch everyday 😊. It really is an easy project to do, the possibilities are endless and it’s a great way to recycle a perfectly good, sturdy box. Pick any fabric you like to cover it, and embroider or decorate it however you want! (wow, I really don’t make it easy to narrow down choices, do I??)

 

 

If you’re also interested in these fun vintage patterns, check out the fabulous collection over at French Knots, and follow my Pinterest board.

Let me know your thoughts on redwork in the comments! I hope you try it and are as charmed by it as I was.

 

Fondly,

 

Sources:

The book Simply Redwork by Mandy Shaw (published by David & Charles in the UK, 2014) and the article “Black and Blue and Red All Over” from the Embroidery Library website (last accessed March 25th, 2021) were consulted to learn more about the history of Redwork.